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Need some professional advice - head work, valve springs, rockers, cam. pretty long.
I am doing some work on a set of stock E7 heads to install with my GT-40 intake. I am going to have the larger 1.94/1.60 vlaves put in them and I am doing a little port work on them myself.
I also would like to bump my compression up by shaving the heads .030 or so. Can anyone tell me where this will put my compression? I've been told .030 is a safe number to take off of the heads. Is this info correct, and wouldn't I have to shim the rockers? For a cam and rockers, I am considering an F or custom grind with 1.6 roller rockers. I've been told that would work good with my intake. Any other recommendations here? Please be specific as to duration, lift, etc because I know absolutely nothing about cams. I need help ASAP because I have a mill free at work to shave the heads down and I need to get these heads and everything else ready to install pronto because I just can't wait to see how the GT-40 improves my performance. Thanks. Oh yeah, my engine is completely stock right now if that helps. ------------------ 90 Mustang LX 5.0 My Ride*My Site [This message has been edited by AxemanZZ (edited 01-10-2001).] |
.030 should be around half a point of compression. That amount of milling won't cause any problems. F cam sounds good, be sure to check piston-valve clearance. Standard Abrasives has a online head porting guide at their website if you need info on that. Are you installing screw in studs for the rockers?
------------------ 67 Fastback - Arctic White Pearl paint 351W ,Trick Flow Aluminum Heads, Edelbrock TorkerII, Comp. Cam, Performance Automatic C-4 Trans, 3.55 gears, Front Disc Brakes, 1-1/8" Fr. 3/4" rear sway bars. My 351W Fastback http://www.mustangworks.com/mustangs...1245-slot2.jpg |
Axeman,
As far as the cam goes...let me tell you that I absolutely love the Wolverine 1087. I run it with ported iron Windsor Jr.s, 1.6 Crane rockers, and 10:1 compression. The cam really eats up the extra compression and screams from 2500 past 6000 rpms. Works great with my tranny setup. Cam specs: 222/232 durtation at .05" lift; .510"/.534" lift; 112 LSA. The cam performs great on the street with no major idle issues other than it sounds meaner that Hades. --nathan ------------------ --silver_pilate '91 GT, Built 306, Wolverine 1087 cam, ported Windsor Jr. Irons, and all the goodies...click the link to the left to see a full list of my mods... Tried and True 302 Being Built to Outrun You! heh heh heh... --Texas Panhandle-- Check out my site |
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Oh...forgot to mention, I'm not sure how much clearance that cam will give you on stock pistons. You may have to notch the pistons (if I had to guess...I'd say likely). I'm running some Keith Black pistons with a big ol' dish cut in them so I have a ton of clearance.
Make a few calls to quality engine builders (Keith Craft Racing, DSS, etc.) and see what they think. Oh, and again....I LOVE this cam. --nathan |
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there are some flow #'s on the corral's tech article section for ported e7's that might help you with your cam choice (f cam seems perfect)
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for studs, they need to pull the old ones, and tap the head for screw in studs. The press in studs can get puled out with big cams that use higher valve spring pressures
------------------ 67 Fastback - Arctic White Pearl paint 351W ,Trick Flow Aluminum Heads, Edelbrock TorkerII, Comp. Cam, Performance Automatic C-4 Trans, 3.55 gears, Front Disc Brakes, 1-1/8" Fr. 3/4" rear sway bars. My 351W Fastback http://www.mustangworks.com/mustangs...1245-slot2.jpg |
You should be fine with the cam, as long as you stick with 1.6 rockers
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Ok, the pedastals are already tapped and there aren't any studs in there. I got these heads from a friend so maybe he already installed studs on them? They seem to be pretty small studs though. And what size studs do I need?
I started porting one of the heads tonight. Man, this is fun! I haven't done anything in the bowls yet, and am kinda scared to. But I am going to grind off the exhaust valve boss inside the bowl and smooth out the intake one a bit. Anyone do there own port work? If so any tips you might have will be much appreciated. I do have another question that I hope someone can answer (sorry to be asking so much of you guys). I was thinking about getting some header gaskets and lay out the ports on the head for a guide to open the ports up a bit. Are the ports (pipes) on the MAC long tubes big enough that they won't be smaller than the openings in the heads if I open them out this far? ------------------ 90 Mustang LX 5.0 My Ride*My Site |
Do not grind the valve guide boss off, just streamline it!
I have ported 351W heads and Trick Flow Aluminum heads, I would suggest just cleaning the ports up without removing much metal. Finish the intake ports with 60 grit and make the combustion chamber and exhaust ports as smooth as possible. If you polish the chambers be sure to remove a minimum amout of material. The studs are usually 3/8" or 7/16" at the top, but I am not sure about the threads that go into the head. Check out this website for porting tips Good Luck http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.htm ------------------ 67 Fastback - Arctic White Pearl paint 351W ,Trick Flow Aluminum Heads, Edelbrock TorkerII, Comp. Cam, Performance Automatic C-4 Trans, 3.55 gears, Front Disc Brakes, 1-1/8" Fr. 3/4" rear sway bars. My 351W Fastback http://www.mustangworks.com/mustangs...1245-slot2.jpg |
I have an F cam with GT-40 heads shaved 30. So you should be safe in doing that. I would double check it though by claying the pistons.
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Be careful when working in the bowl area. A LOT of ppl screw up by taking too much out of there. Remember you need the radii so the air can curve and go through the port, not slam into the side of it. Be Careful! http://www.mustangworks.com/interact...oard/smile.gif
------------------ Capri306, Moderator, The Mustang Works Online 1979 Mercury Capri, 5.0L -- C4 -- 2.73 1987 Mustang LX Notch http://smilecwm.tripod.com/net3/wink2.gif <--- New Timeslips |
Yeah that's the part I'm afraid of. But I have a pretty good eye when it comes to radii and that kinda stuff since I do a lot of carving, wood working, machining of jet engine parts, etc. I think I'll be ok.
As for the exhaust side I think I am ready to start on the bowls. I smoothed the exhaust ports a bit and made the opening more rectangular in shape. I didn't open the port up more than 1/16" or so. |
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It says to grind the exhaust valve boss even with the roof of the bowl. ------------------ 90 Mustang LX 5.0 My Ride*My Site |
OK maybe you can remove it, but I have seen articles and books that say not to remove all of it. That may be overcautious though.
------------------ 67 Fastback - Arctic White Pearl paint 351W ,Trick Flow Aluminum Heads, Edelbrock TorkerII, Comp. Cam, Performance Automatic C-4 Trans, 3.55 gears, Front Disc Brakes, 1-1/8" Fr. 3/4" rear sway bars. My 351W Fastback http://www.mustangworks.com/mustangs...1245-slot2.jpg |
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