casting # ?
 

I have a buddy thats stationed in NC @ a Marine base. He just bought an '83 Mustang hatchback and wants a set of 87-93 GT HO heads.

Are they different, if so, how and what is their casting#?

ALSO: I'm working on my sisters '94 3.8L Stang. The head gaskets are blown to smitherines and I managed to break the dipstick tube off @ the block (Way to go Graham, huh!). How can I get what's left out of the block?

He also wants to do some work. He ran it Saturday night and it ran a 15.8ish @89mph completely stock w/ a 750cfm carb and a 5-Speed. He wants a B303 but isn't his motor a hydraulic cammed motor? (he needs EFI first!!)

You people have a nice bulletin board!

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Welcome. The 87-93 Gt's came with E7's. If you could find a set for cheap it might be worth swapping them, otherwise for a few hundred dollars more you could probably find a set of GT40 heads which would be a much better swap.

The B303 cam is a hydraulic roller. If the car has the original engine in it, it will be a hydraulic flat tappet. There are conversion kits available, but you would probably be money ahead to find a flat tappet cam with similiar specs.

Good luck with your sisters car! Sounds like a good time for a V8 swap! :D

andy

drop that carb down to a 600-625 and he will got at least a 1/2 sec faster

He said there was a 600 Holley that came with the car. I reccomended he get a good rebuild kit and put it on.

He also said there is a guy just north of the Ft. Legume (ck. spelling) Marine Base that had a huge pile of Ford heads. Thats why he was wanting the casting #'s or some sort if identification method. I think he needs to find a good used set of GT40's or something instead of pilfering through a pile of crappy rusted over stock heads. Heck, by the time he gets them cleaned, checked for cracks, milled, new valvesprings/locks/retainers/spring locators (if applicable) and valves and valve seats he'll have a lot of money in a stock set of heads!

Any ideas on a good place to find respectable Mustang parts in North Carolina?

((Personally I think he needs a complete E7 (i suppose is what it could be called) engine to toy with while he drives what he's got.
The he could go EFI AND roller all at once))

Nick really trusts me and listens to anything I advise to him so I trust you guys will look past my bowtie and help a poor honkey out! lol! Now would be a good time to expand my horzon anyway!

Any clues on the dipstick tube in that V6??

later
graham

Exactly!

This picture is of a set of GT40P heads. Notice the 4 vertical bars that I have circled. All P heads have this. The ones you should look for have 3 vertical bars. They are the regular GT40 heads. The Cobra Mustangs had them as well as the 96/early 97 Explorers. The Explorers that I know of did not have a thermactor bypass, so IMO those are the ones to get.
http://members.mustangworks.com/andy669/P_heads.jpg

I sure wont hold the Chevy thing against you. I have a Z-71 that I drive everyday.

andy

RePost
 

I'm working on my sisters '94 Mustang with a 3.8L V6, 5-speed.

I managed to break the oil dipstick tube at the block! How can I get the rest of the tube out of the block??

It seems like its pressed into or siezed in the block!

thanks
graham

have you tried an "easy out" or screw extractor yet? that should be enough to get it out.

keep us posted.
adam

I went to autozone and got one of those "left-hand" bit used to screw broken bolts out. Obviously its real hard to get a good bite on the bit with the motor in the car, and I don't wanna pull it out. If I cant get it out in the ext day or two i'm gonna rig it! (put a metal plug in the hole!!!!! the car hasn't ever used or leaked oil, so i'll tell her what I did and why and make sure she changes the oil every 3000 miles) I know that's the wrong way but to hell with pulling the motor for that!:mad: :confused:

Later, and thanks for your help!
Graham

I did the same thing to my 305, and could not get it out untill I had pulled the engine. Three taps on the lower half of the dipstick tube( that leads into the block keeping the stick away from the crank!) popped that little busted section out! I just used the busted half of the dipstick tube with the dipstick still in it to check the oil. Worked ok and even stayed in place ok. I was always worried about water getting in though.

Good luck with that 3.8 those aluminum heads are notorious for blowing head gaskets and warping.

Any ideas on how to properly set the rocker arms? Right now they're just snugged tight. I turned the motor til each lifter sat completely down and snugged the rocker bolt tight (maybe 25 lb/ft).

Chevyguy: This 3.8 warped the heads and blew both gaskets! It looked like the gaskes died of old age or something!!

Thanks
graham

You probally could have saved time and the hassle of the head gasket job ,ford has a recall on those engines and they do the job so you don't have to worry about it.Ihave seen some engines that got so hot it melted the oil cap slap off.As for the valve settings its just like a 302 ,turn the engine over until the lifter is on the back side of the cam lobe and tighten her up.

which plug wire goes where?
 

which plug wire goes where on the coilpack/distributor? (bolted on the front of the intake

By the way: I got the broke dipstick tube outta the block.

I started an exhaust bolt in the top of the dipstick tube.
I tightned it with an air ratchet until the tube started spinning. When it broke loose and started spinning I put a small wrench on the underside of the exhaust bolt and pulled up while spinning the tube with the air ratchet. Voala! It came right out!!

later
graham

now the damn thing will crank and rev smooth but it wont idle?!?
Oil on the o2 sensors? (from the blown head gasket)
crossed plugwires (doesnt seem like it)
Anything??

I cant get a lick of help from the Small Ponies forum.
Somebody help me please!!!