Problem going with headswap before exhaust?
 

I'm pretty sure I know the answer, but any validation I may get on this will help my decision.

I am considering putting off my exhaust install (x-pipe/h-pipe-catback) until AFTER the head and intake swap. I know I would gain sound with the catback, and maybe 10HP with the x-pipe, but with $800ish in parts invested, (I need a cat-pipe) I would be halfway to the headswap, and the real 50HP(?) gain? Then at this point, the exhaust would yield much bigger gains, and be more worth it...

BTW, I'm certainly doing a gear switch to 3.73s immediately.

Your right on. I would also do the headswap first, and worry about your exhaust second. You exhaust is a bottleneck, but not like the heads are. Figure the 99+ GT's are at 260 HP with the same stock exhaust, so you'll be at 270+.
I went the oppisite direction with my car and did all the bolt on's first, so now the PI heads should work to their maximum potential when installed. I've dropped almost 1 sec of ET and picked up 4 mph, but I still would have done the heads first if I knew about them last year.

Go with the heads just for the hp/$.

And be sure to find someone who offers a ported headswap and headers for one low price.


Wonder where you could find someone like that...................
:D

Yes, Mr. Wheeler...that'll be you all right! I'll PM you when I'm ready.

By the way, are you offering deals that might include the Bullitt intake as well?...

Yup. I can do that. Ported Bullitt Intake Kit = $1500 plus the Ported PI Headswap Package minus the stock intake = $1300.

Grand total = $2800. Buy both and I'll give you a set of FRPP shorty headers at my cost........and trust me, it's a lot less than you might imagine!

:D

My apologies in advance to Hammer if this isn't the place for this discussion...(we can PM this discussion Shannon, if that's the case)

1) I know that normally, headers are a PITA to install. With the head/intake swap, is this now an easy mod to make?

2) How about a set of cams (good performance gain, but nice for a daily driver...) added in?

3) How about lowering the compression a bit? You mentioned combustion chamber work. Any drawbacks here? (I'm assuming this is done on the cylinder head, or is that not technically considered part of the combustion chamber?)

It seems that with all of these mods (plus cat-pipe) I could be looking at, what, +100rwhp?, and similar torque figures? (20hp-catpipe, 15hp-cams, 65hp-PP bullitt intake/PI heads) do these figures look right? Or are they a more accurate picture of what is going on at the crank?

What total cost would I be looking at? (You can certainly PM this bit if you don't want to broadcast the quote.)

Ok.........so if Hammer has no qualms about this then let's see.......

(1) Shorties are considerably easier to install while doing the headswap. Bolt them to the heads while the heads are out of the car. Drop the assembly in and bolt the heads down.

(2) Regrind cams I can do. My DTA cams are $250 a set. I have a couple of nice grinds for street/strip type daily drivers. Good gains and no tuning issues. I can also get you Crane regrinds if you like for $350 (cams, lash caps, shipping).

(3) I can lower the compression ratio if you desire. There are no drawbacks to running the 10.5:1 that you'll get with the swap. You simply have to use 93 octane. If you plan on using a supercharger I can lower the compression to 9.25:1 with combusion chamber mods. Not a problem.

With all these mods (including the Bullitt intake) you could realistically add 100 rwhp to your '96-98 car. This would be possible if you keep the 10.5:1 compression ratio.

I'll PM you with a quote on the total price. Don't want to push my luck too far! :D