Question about stock cam specs
 

I am wondering if anyone has or knows where I can find any info regarding stock cam specs for 87-90 GTs. I know that a few minor changes were made during those years. Ford Racing's website lists the following as "stock specs" for 5.0L HO cams.

Advertised specs are 266 Degrees/266 Degrees duration, 0.444" lift. Does anyone know if this is close?

Also, what is the max lift you can run "safely" with stock heads and stock 4 relief pistons?

Sounds pretty close

The '87-'88 Mustang 5.0 cam was part #E5ZE-AA, and the '89-'90 Mustang 5.0 cam was part #E8ZE-CA. They were very similar, but the E8 cam had 10 more degrees of duration for the intake valves (276 vs. 266). Obviously, that meant that the intake opening and closing points were different, as was the overlap. The lobe lift for both cams was the same for intake and exhaust (.278"). The less-aggressive "soft" lobe profile on the E8 cam, which was done to reduce valvetrain noise, reduced horsepower by about 3 hp.

Take care,
-Chris

That is some great info:cool: You will never feel 3hp on the butt dyno but it is still good to know. Where do you find this information? If you don't mind me asking.

I don't mind at all!

I have the general info and most of the numbers in my head, but when I need specific numbers, and can't remember them, the best source of specs I have is a book called "The Official Ford Mustang 5.0 Technical Reference & Performance Handbook, 1979 through 1993", by Al Kirschenbaum (Ford Racing part #M-1832-Z4). For example, I knew most of the info I gave in this thread by memory, but I double checked for the full part numbers, and the difference in degrees (I was thinking it was 8). I also thought the E8's lost 4 hp over the E5's, but the book says 3 hp.

It's an excellent book, and has alot of really good information, as well as specific stats. Another good example is the GT-40P heads vs. the GT-40's. I knew the GT-40P's were redesigned, with smaller combustion chambers, and a smaller exhaust valve, and required a different exhaust, but it was just a month ago that I discovered that even with the smaller exhaust valve, they still flow better than the GT-40 heads they replaced. I learned that by reading the book. I highly recommend it.

Take care,
-Chris

I have to pick that up. Thanks!

Wade

I thought they added 10* to the exhaust, not intake? Most of the GT40P's advantage in the exhaust area has to do with the lack of pronounced exhaust thermactor bumps, and revised porting.

I just wanted to thank everyone for their input so far, especially Chris. I am rebuilding my 5.0 after 196,000+ miles. It was still running fine BUT it was leaking oil really bad. Anyways, I'm still curious about my future cam. I don't want to do anything too radical because this is NOT going to be a racer. It is just a toy for those pretty days and weekends. In other words I'm more worried about bark than bite. I currently have stock 3.08's but I have a set of 3.73's to go in later. I know the stock cam is a pretty good one considering it came from the factory. I have a 65mm tb, larger mass air, my STOCK heads have been ported, better headers, Flowmasters, and a catless H-pipe(for the bark). That is as far as I'm going on this car. Like I said it isn't going to be a racer. Essentially it might breathe a little better than stock but thats about it. This leads me to my cam choice. I know lower gears will help me some BUT I don't want to move my power band too high in the RPM range and have that "sluggish" feeling when I accelerate (or try to). Also, I know alot of the "off the shelf" cams like Crane and Comp have lifts in the range of .533" and .544". Are these lift rates safe with my stock heads, valves, and the stock 4 relief pistons? I greatly appreciate your responses!

I have run a "B" and an "E" cam with stock heads milled at .030. It worked fine, I don't know if you can go more.

I ran a comp cam extreme energy cam with .512 lift with 1.7 roller rockers and it worked fine. I dont remember the exact part number but i have it somewhere.

My recommendation? Along with the things you've already mentioned, I'd bore the block .030" over, mill .030" (straight-cut) off the heads, and install an E cam. This would give you considerably more torque, yet be able to run on 89 octane easily. This also leaves room for mild future mods, should you get the urge, but will still be stout just the way it is.

Take care,
-Chris

Thanks for the info Chris. I had my block bored .030" over a couple of weeks ago. Would it be better to go with an E cam with my setup as opposed to a split duration cam?