think I got screwed on my new motor please advise!!!!
 

I just bought a new short block from a engine builder I thought was reputable. It is a short block 306, my first problem was when I got the motor and unpacked it there were no holes for the lifter spider, so I had to drill and tap the holes. not a fun thing to do with an already assembled motor, but I got it done. Then I was getting ready to put my heads on and discovered the tops of the pistons are stamped with .060, I know this isn't a terrible thing but its not necessarily a good one either. I dont know that much about the internals and tolerances of shortblocks that is why I purchased a motor and dindt do it myself! Please give me your opinions on how you would handle this. and what the disadvantages are.:mad:

Sixty over on a stock block isn't that good of a thing. The bores start to get mighty thin at anything more than .040 over. You'll probably be alright if you're not planning on flogging the crap out of it with blower or nitrous. Sounds like you got a non-roller block too if it wasn't drilled and tapped for the lifter retainer. Are you sure its got a roller cam in it? I think I'd be on the phone with the builder to find out just exactly what you've got. Ask plenty of questions:

Roller/non-roller block?
Block & crank magnafluxed & checked?
Roller cam? Specs on it?
Crank & balance (28/50)?
Is the assembly balanced?
What types of bearings & clearances?
Why 0.060" over?
Clearance on pistons & final hone?
What type/size of rings?
Thrust for manual/auto?
Decked & squared?

Let them know that you're trying to be an informed consumer and also let them know that if you're suspicious about it that you'll return the motor and expect a full refund.

False Adveritsed Motor??
 

This is the advertisement of the motor the builder sent us...

306 Roller Cam engine for mustang...all new parts ...silv-o-lite pistons (.030)clevite 77 ord, main and cam bearings, motorsport HO cam, dynagear double roller timing chain and oil pump with new pump drive, reground crank, bored and honed block standard heads with new valve job, this is an excellent street engine on a budget about 275 horse complete long block 1225 and short 900.00

Well now that you went drilling on it, they might say that cant exchange it if it is wrong? Id be upset if i got a .060 over block, not that it really is bad, but if i order a 306 then i want a 306, not a 311 or whatever.....I want to make sure that doesnt happen to me if i order one also.

so this is D.S.S.??? hmm....

Ok to clarify, it was NOT DSS, im stupid:rolleyes: hope you get everthing straight, you never know, you could have a badboy motor!!

well I just talked to the guy I bought the motor from and he of course assured me that it wasn't that major a deal. He did apologize for the non roller set up (by the way I ordered the motor minis the valve train.) He sounded genuinely surprised about that. He said he has built many .060 motors and has yet to have one come back for a reason related to bore size. He also said the non roller blocks are stronger ( I honestly have no clue) the block I have does have the raised bosses for the spider they just weren't drilled or tapped. I have taken care of that very carefully myself. he is also faxing and E-Mailing me a copy of a warranty he gives on all his motors. And he has been in business for 20 some years, hopefully he will stand behind his work like he says he will.

You didn't get what you ordered. Send it back while you still can. If he has an issue with that, tell him he'll also have an issue with the better business bureau, and a small claims court appearance to make.

This guy is feeding you a line.

*starts a chant from center field*

"throw it back, throw it back, throw it back "

now way man, order a motor from somewhere else man, you get what you pay for, so dont look for the best deal in the house.

please dont tell me that you got this motor from INDY MUSTANG?????