Baer vs. Ford 5-lug Disc Brake Conversion
 

Ok. I'm planning my 5-lug disc brake conversion for my '89GT. I've gotten conflicting advice about which manufacturer to go with. The Ford M-2300-k kit seems pretty complete. It's about $1700. I was told by some people that I could do the conversion using Baer brakes and Moser axles for about the same price, but its a much better product. I'm planning on using the new Bullit Thrust wheels from Ford. Because of the wheel well difference between '87 to '90 and '91 to '93 ('91 to '93 being larger) do you guys/gals think I should look for a set of newer front fenders? I've heard trying to use 17" rims in the front on pre-'91 mustangs is asking for trouble. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

If you use 245/45/17 tires with 94/95 spindles, it should be alright (these come in the conversion kit). The 96+ spindles move the wheel 1/4" outwards, which can cause interference up front.

The FMS kit doesn't come with adjustable tie rod ends, which are really required (the 94/95 spindle steering arm curves up)... it's not as much of an issue with the straight steering arm on the 96+ (it had to be redesigned cause the rack was mounted lower for the 4.6L).

The FMS kit is often on backorder, and it's being discontinued... which really only makes sense. You can get the parts from the wreckers & parts suppliers for much less $$$.

I'm gonna piece it together. Spindles are about $100, probably get the baer bump steer kit (doesn't require drilling out the spindle).

I'll skip the brake booster & go for the better feel, and get an 86SVO/Lincoln master cylinder (it's bigger than the SN95), get the FMS proportioning valve blockoff, but get the adj valve (goes on firewall) from summit for $40, could get the 3-2 brake line adaptor from MM for $45, but I'll probably just flare some lines myself, MM steel lines for $110, parking brake cable from fms, SN95 axles aren't much, and then I'll just go for new SN95 replacement rotors & calipers from a local parts supplier.

I don't think the big brakes are at all necessary for street use. If they never get heated up, they may not even work as well... so they're just added unsprung weight. You can get the big fronts for under $600 though.

The SN95 calipers do provide 20% more braking area, and the rear disks will certainly be more consistant (and much easier to service).



------------------
'89.5 5L LX, hatch, Medium Canyon Red, 155K Km (No winters), 5sp, 3.08, GT interior, a/c, Alpine CD, K/N, Crane PS91, Walbro 190 LPH, March Pulleys, Mr. Gasket 180 therm (HP balanced), 3 core rad, MarkVIII fan, Variflow controller, Polygraphite front bushings, FMS-5300B springs, 6 KYB's, 73mm Calipers, Maximum Motorsport 4pt chassis brace, Western Motorsport Racing's Sub-frame connectors. Re-ringed bottom end, conv. motor mounts, melling oil pump, FMS-C50 waterpump, GT40P heads (blended, polli

Skankin it sounds like you know your stuff, so I'm gonna ask you a couple of question. I'll be converting my brakes to Sn95 stuff but need to know if I need to change the booster, master cylinder, proportioning valve, and the metering block? I will be using discs in the rear.

------------------
1985 Mustang GT Cobra
Mostly stock. Flowtech 1 5/8" lontubes, flowtech h-pipe, Flowmaster two chambers, Mac 2.5" tailpipes, MSD-6AL with Blaster coil, Weiand Stealth intake, Eibach springs, Monroe Formula GP's.

85cobra,

Definitely have to change MC & prop valve, not sure about the booster or metering block.
It seems the 86 SVO/Lincoln MC should be best, and you'll need the 3-2 MC outlet conversion too.

This is probably the most informative:
http://svo73mm.cjb.net/

This is good too:
http://www.nomotivation.com/5lug.cfm

The FMS K instructions are at: http://www.mustangcentral.net/k1.jpg
(k1 to k8).

This might be handy:
http://members.aol.com/black306/mastercylinder.html