lower control arm
 

i was wondering if i needed any special tools or procidures for doing this.

i wanted to change the bushings on my lower control arms. I was wondering if it would be ok to jack up the car on the drivers side and take out the one bolt that connects the lower control arm to the frame of the car. if i take this out will i be able to pull the arm down out of the way and change the bushing without haveing to take anything else off. or if i take it off will the spring and shock push it down and not allow me to get it back up? Basicallly whatever i need to do to change the bushing. thanks for any help.

I've done it just that way as you suggested. The bushings were built into the lower arms though, so I had to change the whole lower control arm.

Rev

ok thanks rev, i was just afraid to take it off and not be able to get it back up. Ill give it a try today and hopefully everything will work out. :)

ok i got the lower control arm off and put the new bushing in and made sure everything was right. alother problem iv had before this was that if you look at the front of the car on level ground you can see the passenger side lowercontrol arm is almost horizontal where is should be and everything on that side looks right but on the drivers side i can see it hangs down more and the drivers side sits up higher. im sure the springs and shocks are good but i was wondering what would cause this. if i push or pull up on the car i can get it to go through its range of motion and everything seems ok but it just sits too high. any ideas what would cause this? i thought maybe something is sticking not allowing it to be able to set all the way down. but that dosnt seem to be it. anything i can adjust to make it sit better? thanks

it's a good thing u asked that. I was about to post about the same thing. Glad to know I can do it that way.

I actually had to cut 1/4 off the passenger side front coil spring (Magna 620) to make the ride height equal in the front.

If you do that, use a cut off wheel rather than a cutting torch, and don't do it all at once so as to not cut off too much. I cut 1/8 turn and reinstalled the spring and then took it out again to cut 1/8 more. Lots of work, but it's exactly right now.

Rev

MY NEW BUSHINGS ARE IN. LOWER ARM, AND ANTI-SAY BAR. Opps, sorry about the caps.

This is a common problem when installing aftermarket springs. Some of them don't settle soon or evenly. If you've had them installed for awhile, and they haven't settled evenly, perhaps its time to trim a coil on the side sitting higher. If you decide to do this go slowly, cut a small amount, perhaps 1/4 coil and then try it. I know this is a pita.

I haven't had this problem with Eibach springs but they're twice the price of the also rans.

ok thats good info but i didnt change the springs and there at least 2 or 3 years old. All i changed were the bushings. But i had this problem before i changed them. any ideas?

im also looking for an idler arm. anyone know where i can get them cheap or maybe other cars that have the same part in it that i can get it from? thanks

At this point I'd swap the lower arms first and see if the problem swaps. Then I'd move the springs and see it the problem swaps, etc.

Napa's expensive on suspension parts. They maintain high prices so that jobbers can pass the cost on to their customers and reap a higher percentage on the part.

Try Autozone. They carry McQuay-Norris which aren't bad parts and they offer a warranty on them. You'll find their prices are about 1/2 Napa's. If not Autozone, then NPD mail order. NPD supplies Moog and TRW parts. These a bit higher priced than Autozone but not by much.