Suspension suggestions???
 

The details to my car are in the sig. I have run a best ET of 12.9 at 109. I am running BFG Drag Radials in the back and Mickey Thompson skinnies up front. My 60 foot times are killing me. My norm is 2.1's. Anyway, I've decided that it is time for some suspension work. I am thinking about starting with the springs and struts/shocks. Any suggestions on what to get? My goal is strictly drag racing so I was thinking of the Moroso Drag spring set and Lakewood 70/30 struts and 50/50 shocks. Is this the right way to go? What about the upper and lower control arms? What do you guys suggest?
Thanks for the help!

As far as control arms i have heard alot of good things about the SSM lift bars. And that what im going to be putting on my car as soon as i get around to it. They are supposed to help you hook up really well. As far as shocks and struts go im not sure which ones would be the best as ive never played around with those.

IMHO - I've always felt that the 90/10,70/30 & 50/50 struts & shocks were a "best guess" at what the car needs. mainly because your're stuck with that valving. adjustable is the way to go for tuning

I actually already have the SSM lift bars but have never put them on the car. I've heard both good and bad things about them. I was going to try to sell them but maybe I should give them a second thought! I also agree with the idea regarding the adjustable shocks/struts in comparison to the fixed. I am trying to really look at the whole suspension to help me get out of the hole. I know that without slick that I'll never be dumping the clutch at 5500 rpm's but I would really like to leave the starting line at something higher than 1500 and still have to slip the clutch in 1'st and 2nd gear. Do you guys think that the springs will make a big difference or should I just concentrate on the struts/shocks and control arms??? What I really want are mid 12's on the motor and high 11's when I put the nitrous to her!
thanks guy's!

What bad stuff have you heard about the SSM lift bars? They seem to be on alot of fast cars. All I've heard is that automatic cars need a high stall converter for them to work properly.

Do you not want to run slicks? from what I've heard they can drop your 60' by .1 which should drop 1/4 times by .3-.4, and you're at (or close to) your goal of 12.5 N/A.

As for springs, I'd go with a kit (front & rear) because they are designed to work together and I don't know what the trick springs were designed to work best with (stock?,coilovers?...).

The only bad thing that i've heard about lift bars is that because of the increased leverage from the design, you have to strengthen the torque boxes because they'll break or rip off because of the poor stock spot welds on the torque boxes.

I had heard the issues with the torque boxes and also the need to make sure that your pinion angle is correct. I am not sure how to do this and that is why I've never installed them.

It's only a problem if you don't know about it and find out the hard way. (thanks)

They make kits for the torque boxes (waaaaay over priced IMO, $250 upper & lower for $20 worth of sheet metal and bolts). If you know a welder you could have them fully weld all the seams within about 6" of the boxes inside & out (rally racers do this to the entire car, almost eliminates the need for a cage!!!) and box them in (weld a plate across the bottom of the torque boxes). If they can, have them fab pieces like the battle boxes and weld them in also.

Weld ing the seams is a good idea even if you have the battle boxes.

Pinion angle is easy to check but I don't know if you can change it with the stock control arms (w/adj uppers it's easy also). If you don't have one go to Sears and buy a universal protractor (angle finder) probably about $20. Remove the drive shaft and place the angle finder on the pinion flange, read angle.

An artical in 5.0 mag. about reducing 60' times one of the drivers says for a street/strip car PA should be 3* (front of diff angled down I think).