1.72RR's & SVO Valve Springs = 6000RPM On A Stock 5.0!!!
 

Ok, the question I have for all of you is about something I read in Muscle Mustangs & Fast Fords May 2001 issue under the ask Bernie Colum, it says with SVO valve springs(#m6513-a5) & 1.72 roller rockers "then rpm to 6000 with ease" well, if this is so, I think that will be my first mod, but anyone ever herd of this before? I guess i can trust this information.

Anyone know what kind of 1.72 roller rockers to get to fit the stock heads??? ( if you have the part # I would aprecciate them)

Thanks....

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1988 Mustang GT, T-5
3.08's, No Smog Pump (Shorty Belt), Dumps At The End Of Stock H-Pipe, K&N Air Filter (Stock Air Box), Removed air silendcer), 198.9 rwhp @4200 (235 Motor!!), 285 lbs-ft @2900 (336 Motor!!!).
My Stang
My Site (Not Done Yet)

Sure, I am sure you could zing it to 6 grand in neutral! The powercurve would still fall on it's face after 5 grand.

it says that he could shift at 6k where he is now shifting at 5250

The 1.72:1 roller rockers will necessitate the removal of the rail running on the inside top of the valve covers, otherwise you'll run into clearance problems. I'm not sure what pushrods the 1.72:1 RR use, that may be something you'll also have to replace.

Why are you suprised to see 6000rpms? The stock 5.0 redlines at 5900 not because of the engines reliability factor at higher rpms, more because it's not designed to make power beyond that.

The stock hydraulic lifters begin pumping up as the r's really climb, but they should do fine till fuel cutoff at 6250rpms without a whole lot of difficulty. I wouldn't be scared to send the stock rotating assembly to 7000rpm. Just not with those lifters. What would it matter anyway, you're not making power up there at all.

It's not like switching to 1.72:1 RR will be making good power at 6k anyway. You are limited by heads, and exhaust, along with intake.

could i use the factory rockers & everything & just change the valve springs??? it would still rev as good without the 1.72rrs right?

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1988 Mustang GT, T-5
3.08's, No Smog Pump (Shorty Belt), Dumps At The End Of Stock H-Pipe, K&N Air Filter (Stock Air Box), Removed air silendcer), 198.9 rwhp @4200 (235 Motor!!), 285 lbs-ft @2900 (336 Motor!!!).
My Stang
My Site (Not Done Yet)

You still won't be making power much past 5000. And to install springs, I heard you need to remove the head(s) anyways.

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1993 Mustang GT - March Ram Air & Pullies, K&N, C&L 73mm MAF, 3.73 Gears, Super Competition Hooker Headers, 2 1/2 in. mandrel bent cat back, High Flow H-Pipe, Pro 5.0 Shifter, 16* Timing Advance

Bowtie, I think what these people are trying to tell you,and I agree, is that you need more mods besides 1:72 rockers to see anymore power past 5200.
The cam determines where the engine makes it's power and then you need good heads, exhaust,T/B, intake, etc. to compliment the new cam profile.


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'82 GT 351W C-4,BBK headers,Carter 625 carb,Comp.Cam,Flowmaster exhaust.
1988 GT...T-5,bone stock

do those mods first as it will be very easy to make power at 6000. you do not need to change cam or heads to make power there. intake would be a good choice though. the crane energizers fit in stock covers and are cheap and good. its what was used on the cobras and i use them for alot of motors. look at it like this, in all those bone stock classes where nothing is able to be changed theyre going low 12's. and there reving to 6000. be smart, save money and go fast. good luck.

Most cars make power at 6000, just depends on how much. It may not be worth going that high if you have MORE power down lower.

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1993 Mustang GT - March Ram Air & Pullies, K&N, C&L 73mm MAF, 3.73 Gears, Super Competition Hooker Headers, 2 1/2 in. mandrel bent cat back, High Flow H-Pipe, Pro 5.0 Shifter, 16* Timing Advance

Why spend your money on everything but the cam when the cam is the main thing that will stop you from making power from 5-6 even with a new cam and stock stuff i can see 5500 but not 6. Just telling you what i have found in fooling with mine when i was on my way to going fast *still on my way * lol

it is already know in drag racing that reving the motor will make you go faster, hence the 9000 rpm revs in all the high classes. stock cam will not hurt you at 6000 with 1.7 rockers. if you have a problem making power at 6000 its not the cam its you. you would be surprised how fast those motors can go in stock trim. do the small stuff first. its always better to build a motor that is strong before trying to make power. what good is all that power if you can only use it once?