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-   -   Gears/Exhaust/ etc (http://forums.mustangworks.com/showthread.php?t=25939)

spyder210 07-07-2002 07:47 PM

Gears/Exhaust/ etc
 
Hi again...ok here we go......i want to do the following to my car......4.10's, flowmaster catback, x/h pipe, cold air induction, and a chip....

the order of which i am doing these mods are
1-catback
2-x/h pipe
3-cold air induction
4-4.10's
5- chip

my car is a 97 GT vert..automatic with stock 3.27's

my question is, what x/h pipe should i get? i am looking for faster 0-60 and quarter mile...so i guess i need one that provides more low end torque....i heard a flowtech x pipe is good? any other suggestions? mac prochamber???

Also, i want it to be an off road...b/c the cats are too restrictive and they cost alot more...

So, which x/h pipe is reccommended.....AND how can i pass emissions testing w/o cats? I heard to use MIL eliminators....can some one please explain what they are, where they go, and how they work?

For intake, i heard good things about the densecharger....any input on that or other cold air systems? or should i just keep the k&n filter i have in it?

As for the gears....i heard 4.10's are the way to go with automatics...????

On that note does anyone have a used 4.10 posi differential for sale...??? it's either that or i'll buy steedas....


And finally, when i get a chip (superchip or w/e ?????) should i get it customized due to coldair intake, x/h pipe, catback,, and gears.....OR should i get a normal hardchip!


SORRY FOR BEING SOOOOOOO DAMN LONG!!! HAD TO GET THIS OUT OF MY HEAD AND ONLINE!

:)

Hammer 07-07-2002 08:06 PM

First...

Get the gears
Go ahead and get an x\h-pipe...
You CANNOT pass emissions testing without cats.
Even if you pass the sniffer (which is doubtful), many states REQUIRE you to have cats.
High flow cats take away the HUGE amount of 3 to 4 rear wheel horsepower on an N/A setup. :rolleyes: .... just something to consider if you don't feel like changing out your exhaust for every inspection...

My opinion:
Gears, X\H-pipe, and then start saving for a PI head\intake swap...
No bolt-on will compare with the performance gain of the swap.

I have seen no difference on the dyno between a Densecharger and any other CAI setup. But then again, I haven't seen much gain with ANY CAI kit...

Badass_yellowGT 07-07-2002 08:47 PM

4.10`s are not the way to go if you care about gas mileage for good pep use 3.73 better 0-60 and acceptable gas mileage

spyder210 07-07-2002 11:03 PM

really?
 
THANKS FOR ALL THE INFO!!!.....U SAY 3.73'S WILL HAVE A FASTER 0-60 THAN 4.10'S? I KNOW THE 4.10'S WILL HAVE WORSE GAS MILLAGE BUT I THOUGHT THEY WERE QUICKER THAN THE 3.73'S IN 0-60 AND 1/4 MILE....

ALSO I HAVE AN AUTOMATIC....EVERYONE HAS BEEN SAYING TO GO WITH THE 4.10'S.....???????????

THE THING IS...I DON'T WANT TO SPEND SO MUCH SUCH AS PORTED/ INTAKE...

I THINK I WILL JUST STICK WITH THE FOLLOWING.....FLOWMASTER CATBACK.....COLD AIR INTAKE.....GEARS (UNDECIDED)....AND A CHIP....WHICH CHIP SHOULD I GET....AND WITH THE MODS OF CATBACK...CAI...AND NEW GEARS....IS IT WORTHWHILE TO GET A CUSTOM TUNED CHIP...OR A HARD ONE?

THANKS AGAIN!!!!

spyder210 07-07-2002 11:05 PM

ALSO
 
ALSO I FORGOT TO MENTION...I WILL PUT IN PULLIES AS WELL...S000


STEEDA PULLIES,,,,STEED RING AND PINIONS....CATBACK.....CHIP.....AND IS THE CAI REALLLY WORTH THE MONEY?

LIEK WAT R THE RESULTS ON THE DINO? AND WHAT DOES THE PI HEAD/INTAKE SWAP COST? 1500???

THANKS

Hammer 07-07-2002 11:35 PM

Spyder...
Turn off the caps lock will ya? :D

As far as track times, theoretically, a stang with 4.10s will have a slightly lower ET in the 1/4 than one with 3.73s. (maybe a tenth or two?)
In the real world, the difference is negligable unless you KNOW how to drive and launch correctly. I usually recommend 3.73s for most daily driven stangs, but some are sold on 4.10s. It's a matter of taste and how you intend on using the car.

A pre-programmed chip won't give you much hp, but it might make your shift points a bit more aggressive...

I wouldn't recommend a custom chip unless you start heavy N/A mods or go forced induction...

As far as cost, by the time you are done paying for all of these bolt-ons (maybe more if you're not doing it yourself), you would be pretty close to having the funds for a head\intake swap.

You can go any route you want, but the downfall of the early modulars are the heads. Replace them, and everything you do after means increased performance....

Case in point:
Show me a stock-headed, blown, 96-98 GT set at 8 lbs. of boost making 450 hp at the crank.... You won't find one because the heads are too restrictive.

You want show, buy a Cold Air kit...
You want go, replace the heads and intake...

spyder210 07-09-2002 03:51 PM

thanks
 
thank you very much everyone.....i believe from what i have learned i will go with a flowmaster or magnaflow magnapack catback, steeda pullies, and either 3.73's or 4.10's, as well as a chip....... probably superchip? or diablo ......maybee even the hypertech power programmer III.....from those 3 chips wat is reccomended?????


also,,,the intake/head swap that you are reffering too....wat is the website for that...who makes it...how much of a power gain will i see...and wat is the price.........??????

lastly...i hear alot of people saying how they removed their air silencer.....why???? how???? is that the box covering the filter? will it offer more air into my k&N???

THANKS AGAIN!


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