Codes
 

Well I've been having a really bad misfire lately, and I figured before I get a new distributor ($130 cdn and TFI module $60cdn) I'd check some codes so I finally broke down and got a code reader, and did a quick KOEO test just to see what codes I've got. I used the book I got with my reader and these are the codes:
A9L Computer w/24lb Injectors, 73 mm C&L Meter calib. 24lb.

67 - Neutral Safety Switch - I had the car in gear tho. So I guess this is okay.
81 - Air Diverter Solenoid ( IAB Right?)
82 - IAB Right ?
85 - Canister Purge Solenoid ? (Don't have one its removed)
95 - Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Fault


Someone please help me out, I hope I understood things correctly. What causes that 95 code? I've got a 190 lph pump in there and its less than a year old. My fuel system is a year old too. Would it be that Inertia Switch thing?

Code 67 is because you didn't hold down the clutch pedal while running the test.

Code 81 and 82 are smog pump related. Is yours still installed?

Code 85 you explained.

Code 95 means there is a short, or a bad connection, in the fuel pump circuit. You need a breakout box to do any diagnostic testing for this, with one exception. A failing inertia switch can cause this, and can be tested with a simple multimeter. Unplug the inertia switch, and set the meter to ohms on the single digit scale. Measure the resistance in the inertia switch after making sure it is closed. If it measures less than 5 ohms, it's fine. If it measures anything above 5 ohms, replace it.

Take care,
~Chris

Thanks for the reply! I don't have the smog pump installed so I guess those codes except for 95 are alright. Would a failing inertia switch cause a misfire? My friend's car had a bad one and it did cause a bunch of driveability problems. The only old thing left on my car is the distributor, which I'm gonna replace this week.

Well I did a KOER test, and got the 41 and 33 codes. I'm assuming my EGR valve is shot (probably is anyway because I don't think its ever been replaced.). The Lean code is something that makes me wonder. Timing is 10 degrees, and fuel pressure at 38 psi. I bypassed my inertia switch after the test and wanted to do it again, but it poured rain, so I'll try it tomorrow.

41 & 33 together usually means a vacuum leak in the EGR vacuum hose. Check it for cracks, etc. Otherwise, verify the hose is not blocked, and then apply 10" of vacuum w/ a vacuum pump to the EGR valve while the engine is idling. If the engine stalls, or stumbles, the system works. Next watch to see how well the EGR holds and maintains that 10" of vacuum.

Post your results.

Take care,
~Chris

Hey Chris,

I did the EGR check, and the valve is stuck part way open, so I replaced it and the code when away. I also found out that my inertia switch was faulty, had way over 5 ohms. So I bypassed it for now. ( I know not the best thing but cheapest for now). I'm gonna drive it for a bit and see if the EGR valve was causing my drivability problems. Hopefully I can save the money on a new distributor.

Thanks.
Joe

Cool!

Take care,
~Chris