distributor problem
 

Hello all

I just repplaced my distributor and I'm positive I installed it in the same exact position, but at high RPM I get a chatter. What is happening? I believe the rebuilt one has the correct gear(steel or cast iron), because the part number exactly matches my old distributor. Any suggestions?

I guess nobody knows anything about distributors around here...

That's right, shower us with kisses.

Your post was too vague. What do you mean by getting a "chatter"? Does the distributor itself make noise, or do you mean the engine is cutting out? If it is cutting out, does it feel like fuel (sputtering) or ignition (kills)? Did you separate the wires going to cylinders #5 & #6?

Help me help you, smartass. ;)

:)

Take care,
~Chris

YEah, sounds like too much timing to me, grad a timing light and check the timing, always good to have one around when doing a project like swapping dist.

it is only apparent above 3000RPM under load, this elimnates the possibilty of me being able to pinpoint where it is cominf from. But, it could simply be the timing, I just doubt it. Usually it's a ping or a sluggish sound if the timings out.
it sounds similar to a heat shield rattle(which happens from the rattle caused at the bottom of a gear), if that makes any sense.

BTW
my first reply to the post worked, anyway...

;)

The thing about pinging with to much timing is not always true. When i put to much timing on my car, I get alot of what sounds like header rattle before i get clear cut pings. Why not check your timing and make sure when u put in the new distrributor you didn't advancee it to far.

Last time I did anything with timing I rented a gun from Autozone, I should just go out a buy one.... That will probably clear up the problem.

Yeah, you should. That's what it sounds like to me from your description. Just make sure you have the SPOUT connector removed when you check and adjust the timing, and put it back in before you go for a test drive. If you find the timing is above 14 degrees, set it to 12. If you find it's less than 14, set it to 10.

Take care,
~Chris

What happens if you take a test drive without replacing the spout?

The timing won't advance. The SPOUT connector is kinda like a fusible link between the ECM and the ignition system. The advent of the ECM eliminated both vacuum and mechanical advances for the ignition, and gave the ECM complete control. Problem is, how do you set it if the ECM is always trying to control it? That's why they created the SPOUT connector. When you unplug it, you are disconnecting the ECM from the ignition system, and putting the engine into a form of open loop. FWIW, there is another very convenient byproduct of having the SPOUT connector so easily removed; You can often quickly determine if an idle problem is due to a mechanical problem or an ECM controlled problem. For example, when Joe was having that nightmare with his engine falling flat at 1/4 throttle, the possibilities seemed endless. Everything from bad O2 sensors to valves out of adjustment was suggested. I asked him to remove the SPOUT connector and then see if the problem was any different. He did, and the answer was no, it didn't seem to affect things. That immediately told me it wasn't anything to do with the ECM. It wasn't the MAF, it wasn't the O2 sensors, it wasn't the IAC, it wasn't the TPS, etc. I knew then it had to be a mechanical failure. As it turned out, the problem was a coil that had developed way too much resistance. A mechanical failure.

So, to answer your question, the ECM will not be able to control the engine properly if the SPOUT connector is left out for the test drive.

:)

Take care,
~Chris

ALL SET

the timing was at about 16 degrees.

set it to 14 and were doing just swell!

Thanks alot guys :D

Cool.

Take care,
~Chris