Got 1/4 times, don't seem right.
 

I would have thought that my car would have run faster than this. I don't think the tranny is doing well, as my 2-3 shifts don't occur until about 6000RPM (no matter how early or late I shift), that and my factory stall is killing me, it loads out at 1700RPM... I was doing some nice burns though... They had an Import vs. Domestic race yesterday at the Raceway.. Even with my crappy times, I am proud to say that the ONLY car I lost to was a Blown 5.0 with slicks running 13.0..

Here's what I beat:

Acura Integra TypeR (think he was blown, saw A-Pillar Gauges and heard whine)

Honda Civic, for sure turbo, heard the waste gates.

Various other Hondas and Acuras

Now the funny part is, my car is kinda loud, but... not once during my 7 runs did my friends hear me.. All they heard were the rice burners with their 5inch exhaust.

Anyways, here's my best slip.

R/T -- .901
60' -- 2.114
330' -- 6.171
1/8 -- 9.503 @ 74.11
1000' -- 12.379
1/4 -- 14.813 @ 92.57

After this, I avg'd out to exactly 15.0 @ 91.1 everytime. (my car got real consistant run after run).

Also, I swear I can hear pinging coming from my driver side pipe.. I can't get it to show up on anything though, and it only makes the noise when the engine is understrain, so I can't get under it to listen in park.

Maybe when I go tomorrow to have it dyno'd they'll check the A/F for me and see what's going on. I know my ECU complains about my #2 HO2S on the driver side, it may be out. Anyways, I am not too happy with my car right now, as I ran a 15.1 @ 91 bone stock. After all the stuff I have added, it still isn't any better? Any ideas?-- real ones, not insults please... Thanks for anyhelp.

Hey,

I think I remember a while back you saying your car was an auto--I think in a pm talking about steeda...wouldn't an automatic car have slower times than a manual? I don't know b/c I don't race, except the occassional red-light to red-light stuff. Just a thought...manual vs. automatic?

MINE IS AN AUOT...2000 GT....STOCK I RAN A BEST OF 14.4 @96...NOW WITH 4.10'S AND NITTOS AND FLOWMASTERS BEST RUN WAS 13.99@98

That question has long been debated. Yes, 5-speed may make the car a little faster, that's only if the driver can drive it to it's potential. I have beaten a lot of sticks on the street due to the fact alot of them can't shift quick enough, or at the right times. An auto will consume more power to turn, but will provide an accuracy that is hard to get with a stick.

I am still running an entirely stock fuel system. Thinking about upgrading the Injectors/Fuel Pump to 24lbs/hr, my car seems to always run lean. The A/F reading I get tomorrow will help me figure out what to do.

No offense man, (I love mine) but auto's just plain suck...you know it, I know it...deep down, we all know we are less of men by driving one....


It just takes tons more work to get a similarly equipped auto to run with a stick (stall, tranny upgrades, shiftkit, etc,etc)

agreed.

Looks like you've got gears, exhaust, pullies, and some intake stuff.......I'm sorry to say this, but that IS about what 96-98 GT auto's run with the mods you have.

Those lowering springs and 18" rims are prob. hurting you a little.

My advice would be a 2800-3000 stall and a shift kit.

Nah, I don't think his susp. is hurting him...and I think his car makes the power to turn those tires. Any less and he might lose traction...it's been a while since I read his specs, but I think he has ALL the steeda ups, which include suspension. I know for sure that 5 link rear susp. that steeda makes isn't hurting his time...I think it's just the tranny. Slammin gears is always more fun than having the car do it for you. If I had the choice, I'd get one of those six-speeds w/ 4.10's in the rear, but for that money...well, let's just say I haven't seen that much money since graduation, and it all went into buying my car I have now ;).

I don't have the 5-Link setup. I would like to go to a stick, but... too much money, we don't have that many performance shops in this area that do things like that. The tranny shops will, but; they don't do it enough to get it done right and have it cost effective. I can't see spending 3,000.00 on a tranny swap to 5/6spd.

The lowering spring could very well be hurting him....they are stiffer than stock. The rims are slowing him down a little, those 18's are heavy.

Your times seem right to me. The 96-98 stangs just are not that fast in stock form. I would do a head swap.

Forget the head swap... I'm thinking about doing a car swap. There's a 98 Cobra for sale up the road, they also have a 98 TA, and a WS6. When I get back from the Dyno today, I will know if it's just weight, or tire diameter, or if my A/F is messed up. Pro-M says my meter is cal. for 19/hr inj. but, I wonder about that sometimes, as my car is always running lean...

Guys, he cut a 2.1 60ft on 18" street tires! Its really not going to get any better then that on 18's, so you know his suspension is fine. And all this trash talking on autos is B.S. also. Yes they suck up more power then a manual, but its about 10rwhp on a 96-98GT, 13-14rwhp on a 99GT+, so thats doesn't need "a ton of mods" to make up the difference.
In fact, by judging manual 99+GT's owners 1/4's times, my brother's bone stock '99 GT auto that ran 14.2@97.5 is right there or better then half the manuals. A manual trans can't make up for an unexperienced racer.
98SteedaGT - that chip is killing you. No way should you be shifting at 6000rpm. Thats whats killing your top end. You NEED to have that chip reburnt by www.fordchip.com or www.rffperformance.com, as you should be going at least 14.5's@95. You just need to get the right combo.

Here's a slip from my Tbird which is 350-400lbs heavier, with less mods:
60ft - 2.180
330 - 6.314
1/8 - 9.633
mph - 74.38
990 - 12.403
1/4 - 14.894
mph - 93.57

Come vivist www.mtcforum.com. You may want to consider getting a dyno tune with Jerry W. or Dom o. from RFFperformance (who is in TX by the way.)

Well.... I've had the chip out for about a month now. It was conflicting with my TA from Steeda. It was trying to set too much advance, so I ditched it. I am now running stock computer. Thanks for the help. So I guess by your comment that a 2.1 60 is ok on my tires?

Will post my dyno slip later on tonight or tomorrow morning.

The web site for the fordchips.com chips is really good. It gives alot of good info I have not read before. They seem to have it going! If I ever do get a chip it would be one of theres. Also, the point about AUTOS is very debatable. The right driver in a stick can kill an auto for sure but it's safe to say that 75% of drivers in a stick make mistakes when the preassure is on. I've killed alot of stick in my days ( 20 yrs+ ) and they would all say the same thing, I Missed a gear! etc.. I still won! If I had the choice I would have a stick, but ya gotta live with what ya got sometimes.

You are no where near needing to upgrade to 24lb injectors. If your running lean you need to have your car dyno tuned and the air fuel ratio adjusted. Just adding injector is not going to do a thing for you.

Bill

You might be right about something being wrong with your tranny if you are running your stock computer and its still shifting at 6000rpm. Of course you know thats way out of a 98's powerband.
And Mustang92 is right on. Your fuel system is good to ~300hp.
Can the person doing your dyno lock up your TC so you get an honest reading over more then just a 1500rpm range.

My car officially sucks now... Anyone want it??...

According to the guy running the dyno, the machine compensates for vehicle weight and body type (or something like that), anyways here's the rear wheel power.

181HP @ 4250
231TQ @ 3625


Geez.... I think I am going to go home and bury my car, as it needs a nice funeral... That 98 TA up the road is looking better every day...

About to go put all the stock parts back on and sell this POS.

From those dyno numbers there has got to be something else wrong with your car. You should put that much power to the ground stock, which would agree with your assessment that you are not really running any faster now than you did before the mods. While the PI swap would definitely net you bigger gains for the mods you did, you still should have seen SOME improvement over stock with those bolt-ons. I'd have someone knowledgeable take a look at it before you sell it out of frustration.

Well.. I did it, I went down to the dealership..... if all goes well, I will have myself a new car tomorrow afternoon....if I do, I probably won't be on the board here anymore..

incase I do leave, I would just like to thank everyone here for their help.. This has been my first auto-board to be on, and other than a few heated debates, you guys have been really cool..

Will let you guys know what happens.. I might end up staying with the Stang if the dealer wants to goof around on me....