Safety Cut off switch
 

Went to the track in the coupe last weekend and couldn't run due to not having a safety cut off switch. They said I needed this because of the battery being in the trunk.

Anyone have any info on these, good install tips, or experiences on this? Thanks

I have the Moroso box with the Flaming River cut off switch. The box comes with the hold down, air tube, fastners, and gromets. The only bad thing I could say about it is that my friends like to shut it off on me making me look like a dumb ***.

I dont know why it would change anything safetly wise by just moving your battery to the rear, but it is a rule to have a cutoff switch back there.

heres a site with some good info on it:
http://buffhomer.corral.net/custom.html

good luck

You just need to get a switch, I got the moroso NHRA leagal one for about $40 from Summit, and hook up the battery and a 4 gauge cable from the alternator. I'm in the process of doing this right now, well in the next week or so not right this minute. It's kind of a pita. Flaming river makes a nice setup with the push/pull rod you can remove for driving on the street, but it's freaking expensive, ~$80.

Re: Safety Cut off switch
 

Sounds like the tech guy was on it there,where ever there is :)

You can order one in Summit or Jegs,do you have the aluminum box or are you shielded off from it? Most NHRA tracks require a shield between and the battery but since you have a coupe it might not matter ask the tech guy next time you there.

yeah, it's fairly new track so I think they want to stay on there toes for a while. Good track though, anyway, I've got the plastic black box that mounts in there from summit. No shield though, I was under the impression you had to have the shield if you had the smaller gas tank is the trunk, but they didn't say anything about a shield. It's the track in Donaldsonwille, La, it's called No Problem Raceway, guess mine was a problem though..LOL
Does anyone have any pics from there installs? thanks

There is an excellent article in the Oct. '02 issue of 5.0 Mustang & Super Fords on doing a trunk mounted battery, cables, and remote disconnect switch

A company called M.A.D. Enterprises sells a complete kit for the relocating the battery, along with the starter solenoid, to the trunk/hatch area. Really good b/w pics in the article... the on/off switch is a PUSH on/off type and mounts next to the license plate.

This kinda stuff always becomes available after I have to do all the hard stuff myself :)... otherwise I'd have this particular kit. Looks like a really nice kit... I especially like the remote starter solenoid, but you have to buy an extra part called The Connection which goes where the starter solenoid used to be, so you can hook-up the original power feed wires and fusible links, and any other accesory you might've hooked up there...

I can post some pics of my setup later...

Oh, btw, Moroso makes two types of kill switches, one is a HD version and is recommended for extended use (street driving)...

Pics...

http://members.mustangworks.com/ultr...s/rear_end.jpg

I used a hole saw to drill the hole for the switch and for the hole that's in my license plate too...

http://members.mustangworks.com/ultr...attery_box.jpg

It's a Summit battery box, if you didn't already recognize it ;)

http://members.mustangworks.com/ultr...ar_hatch01.jpg
http://members.mustangworks.com/ultr...ar_hatch04.jpg

You only need the shield if it's in a hatch and you don't have a sealed box that vents to the exterior of the car. The idea is to be sure the driver isn't poisoned by the fumes coming off a hot battery. Taylor makes a nice sealed box but it's pricey at about $100+.