Will a Black Magic Fan cool a 331?
 

My new motor is a 331 cu. in. stroker with ported TFS TW heads, Steeda #19 cam (.516/.516 w/ 1.72's), 9.2:1 compression, GT-40 intake, Accufab 65 mm TB, 75mm Pro-M, 24# injectors, 155lph pump, 3.55's, Tremec, etc.

Currently, I'm running a 195 thermo and Griffen radiator. Under hot and humid (say 90* and 80% humidity) conditions, the car runs right at 185-190 on the Autometer gauge - all while moving at any decent speed. However, at long stops, drivethroughs, etc. the temp will SKYROCKET to 230* in a matter of minutes. The car never did this with the old 302 motor. I know I've got a ton more torque and power, but is this what's causing my overheating issues?

I was going to step down to a 180 thermo, but was thinking maybe I should just free up some HP by gettng a Black Magic setup. However, after a topic search, I've noticed that the Black Magic fans don't seem to cool strokers too well or 351's for that matter.

So what would you guys recommend? Should I get a dual electric fan setup? Get the Black Magic and 180 thermo? Stick with the stock fan and get a 180 thermo?

Thanks in advance for the replies.
E

BTW - I'm running a 70% distilled water & 30% Prestone mix - no water wetter, yet.

To be honest, I hated my Balck Magic. Never knew if it was ruuning, other than when the temp shot way up. I was running a Fluidyne and a 180* t-stat. Still didn't like it. Bought a HD polics fan and clutch and never have a problem. It does heat up some in traffic, but as soon as I move, the rpms from the engine help pull the air through at a higher speed, unlike the Black Magic. I would definately stick with the stock, or even get a HD one. I would rather lose the HP than have the heat. Hope this helps.

Chris

Got a fluidyne and a BlackMagic - love it. You can hear the fan running while you're sitting idling, I'm sure you can rig up an indicator light when the fan is on.

As far as the original question, I've seen info on the www.flex-a-lite web site you can run upwards of 428,429s in Stangs - these are earlier mustangs. The best way to see if you can run your BlackMagic with your 331 is send an email to the following:
flex@flex-a-lite.com

My buddy runs low 11's in his 332 cid stroker and the BM works fine for him.

Cooling
 

I have a aluminum headed 306 w/ 9.7-1 compression a 160 stat a Ron Davis radiator and a BM. My car on a 95 degree day whether being beaten or sitting in traffic never goes above 175. A i wired the fan to come on with the key.
The Black Magic is a great choice.

Hey guys, thanks for the replies. Keep them coming.

Thanks,
E

Same engine - same problem. As I didn't have A/C in mine I reversed the BM fan in its frame and mounted it in front of the radiator. Wired to a lighted switch in the console. Worked fine.....

it works great for me with the stuff in my sig no matter what the temp is outside.... and i got it brand new for $100 (private sale) so i couldnt complain... thats one of the most talked about portions of buying an electric fan... the cost doesnt justify the black magic fan but if you find one cheap, get it!

take care,
adam

If you're interested in saving a few bucks you might do well to check out your local salvage yard. I found a fan that I think was out of a truck. Anyhow, I had to make a custom shroud out of aluminum and I only need to run it in traffic or while stopped. The only problem I have is at night with my headlights on it really taxes my alternator with the underdrive pullies. The plus side is I can turn it off when I race and when I sit in the staging lanes the fan can run while the car is off. Cools things down fast. I don't think I had $25 in my setup. (Junkyard fan, relay, switch, splices, etc).

Will I need to get a 130amp alternator with the BM? I've still got the stocker and it works fine with my March pullies, but I concerned that the BM may be too taxing on the system.

Any thoughts?

Thanks again,
E

Anytime you're running pullies - I would suggest upgrading your alt to a 130A 3G. I've got a BM, MAC pullies, with a PA PERFORMANCE 130a unit and we've got plenty of juice.

When I purchase the 130a 3G alternator, will it just bolt up and plug-in like the stocker? Or, will I need to do any special wiring or other parts to make it work?

Thanks,
E

Only thing you might have to do is grind your alt bracket a little as the 130A casing is a little bigger than stock 65A alt, no big deal - simply mark with a sharpie pen and grind off. PA PERFORMANCE recommends changing one connector from the stock alt - as it's a fire hazard. Ford has even changed over the connector.

Directions are easy to read, and PA PERFORMANCE has great support and a life-time warranty. Only issue with the warranty is not to remove their alt pully - as it voids the life time warranty. Not a problem as there isn't much difference between their pully and my MAC alt pully.

check them out: http://www.pa-performance.com/