supercharger/idle woes
 

Just installed the new p1 sc kit from procharger and now my car wont even come close to idling....Pouring out black smoke...Even if i adjust the fuel pressure down to 10 psi it still wont idle....What would cause this???I cant even get the car to idle to see if its pulling enough vacuum. I have 30 lb injectors and my mass air has been calibrated correctly. There is no check engine light...Where do I start??? Any help would be much appreciated

Did your system come with a FMU? If so, try taking it out of the equation. A friend of mine just went thru this same problem. Just a thought. Also, check all of your connections, where the tube goes to the throttle body and the such. If you didn't get ALL of the hose clamps tight, that may be another problem. Good luck.

just had an update...disconnected the hose so the tb just sucks regular air and the blower just blows air out in the engine compartment.....Also installed new plugs and wires....It now surges really bad but no longer is it pouring out black smoke.....It still wont idle without me putting my foot on the gas a little. Any suggestions?

Have you checked your TPS reading?

Also, are you using a 'blow-thru' meter, or do you have the MAF meter before the blower?

E

Sounds to me like you have a horrible vacuum leak. If you removed your upper for any reason, make sure it is tight and the gasket is good. Did you follow ATI's vacuum diagram to the letter? Vacuum is an extremely important part of your idle.

Call Tony...
 

Hey Hound,
Call Tony Gonyan at Hocus Pocus in Middleburg and he will tell you exactly what you need to know.
1. Did you upgrade your fuel delivery system? i.e. in-line pump?
What psi are you running at?
FMU's are notorious for running on the rich side, but your smoke is indicative of something like a really solid vacuum leak.
e-mail me if you need the number, its in the phonebook and he knows his stuff. He is a renouned driver/mechanic around here and has plenty of track wins to back it up. (and his shop kicks butt too)

Its blow through set up....I have a 190 lph intank pump as well...Yeah It sounds like a vacuum leak but I cant seem to find it...Ive hooked up a vacuum guage to it but It wont ldle to see if its pulling 17-20 psi..

Vac leak
 

I had the same problem when the blower blew a vac line off of the rear of the upper intake. Ck all of the vac lines and hoses from the MAF to the intake. It is pouring smoke because the HEGO's are reading unmetered air due to the leak. But also try bypassing the FMU. It could also be bad but you should see high fuel press. ANd the MAF has to be correct for the application-blow through or drawn through. What kind of MAF is it?? ANd is it new?

Its a pro m 75....My car has offically died now...wont start. Its like its being flooded out...or its not burning off the fuel that it does have...fuel pres.. is good.Im really leaning toward distributor...right before it died it ran horrible....If i gave it just a little gas it would slow down and almost die....it is also really hard to start when the engine is hot....sound like a distributor to anyone else?

What did you gap your plugs to
 

girlhound,

You said you installed new plugs and wires,when you installed your new plugs,what did you set your gap setting at?

If it was running fine before you installed the blower, and you changed nothing else then you have something either not hooked up or hooked up wrong. You will have to replace the plugs because it sounds like they are fouled. Go over everything slowly and carefully before you try starting it again. Could be something as simple as not connecting the MAF leads.

plugs gapped at 35 thousanths.....put stock ones back in since they are hard to foul out......It has something to do with engine temp....the hotter the car gets....the worse it runs....dont know if its maf o2 or even the distributor when it gets hot...It had some quirks with it before i installed the blower...It was really hard to start when the car was hot...if i shut the car off when it was hot and cranked it back up it wouldnt idle....It was fine from a cold start though...I think all the blower did was make a problem i already have worse due to more air and fuel..IM going to put a scanmaster on it again tomorrow to see what codes it throws...I think im gonna send the maf back to pro m and see if its bad or set up incorrectly

Good idea about pulling the codes. See what you get and then come back here with them.

PKRWUD (Chris) really knows his stuff, so after you get the codes he can probably provide some good advice. ;)

E

Wont idle
 

When we hooked my SC up and started it up it smoked like crazy. We took it out and run it a bit and it cleared up. The computer had to relearn some of the info it was getting back. My car did it once before when we had way too much injector for the stock motor. After it got hot you would have to floor the throttle to get it to start. I would think its your maf or like the others stated a massive vacuum leak. But the leak should be easy to find. Maybe you could try the propane leak check way. Good luck though.

update
 

I replaced the distributor and reset the timing at 10 degrees....All to no avail...I also disconnected the fmu to see if that was it....NO luck...Im almost sure its the maf meter.....It idles and runs great cold....still havent got a scanmaster on it yet...Im having it towed to mustang motorsports in Jax tomorrow....hopefully they will put a computer on it and figure something out...Ill keep yall posted on latest developments....thanx for all the help so far!!!

im sorry did u say you checked the tps?

later

I never checked the tps cause it might help with the idle but it dosent have anything to do with why the car runs bad when it gets up to operating temperature...Is it true that fmu's are calibrated for certain type injectors? I dont thnk my fmu is correct but even when i disconnected it , the car still ran bad

yeah u dont need the car to be running to check the tps, you just have to have the key on.
make sure you are getting 5v through your orange wire first, if your not then there is a break in the wire some where. Then probe the green wire with the red probe, and ground the black probe, stock it should be around .70v, but for the best performance you want it inbetween .95v-.97. The way to adjust it is, First you need to take off the tps sensor, Then elongate the two holes for the screws on the tps sensor, then place the tps sensor back on the throtle body, put the screws in snug, keep the green wire probed and continue to turn the tps until you get a reading in that area, then tighten down the screw all the way and check again, Hope this helps

i forgot to add that my car idled at really good when it was cold and as soon as the car warmed up boom... the tps was not doing its job and there went the idle. I dont think you need special types of injectors for a fmu, just as long as it is calibrated to the right size injector, if i were you i would PM pkrwud, he knows his stuff when it comes to computer related stuff

later