What performance does an Aluminum Driveshaft give?
 

All I know is that it's probably about 8lbs lighter.

thanks

Less reciprocating mass = more HP to the wheels... how much? don't know. Less mass swinging around is supposed to free up some ponies... parasitics, I believe, it how it's properly labeled.

The stock driveshaft creates more of a parasitic drag on the motor for obvious reasons... it's heavier :)

You can expect to see a 1/4 mile e.t. gain somwehere around .0001 second

:D

It's not much of a gain in the 1320, but it is lighter, stronger U-joints, and will reduce reciprocating weight.

E

the only other thing I heard was when my best friend put one in, he claimed it was a smoother ride. After I drove it and didn't notice, he claimed it was smoother on the highway. Don't know.

FWIW, there was a noticeable reduction in shifter vibration after I installed mine. I also rebuilt my T-5, but I think the vibes were from the stock driveshaft.

I read a bunch of reviews before I bought it and everybody raved about less vibration, especially with gears. If I can find them again I'll post a link.


Rich D.

I had a vibratioon at about 6K rpms in 4th gear with the stock drive shaft. After I put in the aluminum shaft in the vibration was gone. Also I did notice a differance in highway driving vibrations. Not much, but there was a differance. My stock drive shaft did have 180K miles on it though.:eek:

The old aluminum drive shaft is like the guys said, it's lighter and does free up some ponies. It's also meant for extreme horsepower for running transbrakes at high rpm and 5-speeds launched at 6,000 and beyond, basically it's a bulletproof driveshaft, and well worth the money.

Well the driveshaft is not bulletproof i had one and after about 10, 5800 RPM launches on slickds it broke but i did go out and buy another one because they are awesome. The aluminum driveshaft does all the things listed above and is a very god upgrade for the price.

Thanks a lot guys. I'll most likelybe buying one when I recover a bit from the Fluidyne radiator. It sounds like it's worth it. It's funny because I do have a bit of high rpm vibration on the highway... especially in 4th gear like 5ohCOUPE said.

Did I mention that this was the best Mustang/Ford site on the net? :D

I would save your money on the driveshaft. I had one, and while it is a nice piece and not to expensive, there are better things you can do for the money to maybe give you better gains.

The main reason people run them is vibration problems, and if you arent experiencing them, you really wont gain anything from it.

I took mine off and sold it when I needed some cash. No performance difference whatsoever noticeable.

Consider this...if your driveshaft is old chances are your u-joints are near their end. Those are $15-20 each, plus you have to install them. My driveshaft had around 120-150k on it and the yoke wore down noticeably and the front u-joint was shot (rusted bearings).

If your slip yoke is wearing out, that's $70. Plus a bad slip yoke will allow trans fluid to leak, potentially causing a lot of destruction in your tranny (if the fluid levels are not maintained).

Add that up and you have $110 in parts to rebuild your driveshaft. Add $50-60 and you can have a lighter, stronger, fully assembled driveshaft. Think of it as an investment towards the future. You mentioned that you have some vibrations now...It'll get worse if/when you add gears to the equation.

Speaking from experience, I strongly recommend it. My transmission rebuild was $700 and 3 weeks with my car on blocks, and that was doing it myself. The main gear (input shaft to cluster) had worn and was very noisy from a low fluid condition plus I had some prior 2nd gear engagement problems. I had to buy a new input shaft ($90), cluster kit including a new cluster, 2nd and 3rd gears($279) and the 1-2-reverse slider ($90) on top of the rebuild kit ($170) and a steel retainer ($40). All this because the slip yoke wore out (probably from the bad u-joint).

Looking back I wish I just got the alum d/s in the first place. Would have saved me at least $400 of the rebuild. However, the cluster kit IS made of a stronger alloy and has shorter 2nd & 3rd gearing. So not a complete loss.

Wow, I'm really babbling. Sorry and good luck with whatever route you take.

Rich D.

More rear wheel horsepower.

Smoother because aluminum absorbs vibration.

Not as strong as a steel drive shaft. You do not find aluminum drive shafts in anything running 9's and under.

Graphite shafts even better for horsepower and anti vibration, but twice the cost. This is what the exotics are moving toward when and if they need a driveshaft.

Hope this helps.

I too would save your money. Replace your U-Joints and most vibration issues will go away. Ford balances every factory drive shaft.

Put the money toward stuff that builds power and faster ET's . Street Slicks, steeper gear ratios, NOS, these are things that really make the car bark....

i had my stock drive shaft re balanced for about $30.00 and bought new u joints and havent had a vibration problem at all might buy carbon fiber when i have the money though,

are the improved mileage claims true?

I understand the whole weight thing, but being a driveshaft it has the laws of physics on it's side. What I mean is that it's an awefully small diameter thing that is spinning. It's not like it's a paddle wheel from a ferry your spinning that is resisting against something(water), it's more like a pencil in free air. Using this analogy I fail to see a large gain. Believe me if I ever take it out for any reason, I'll probably put in an aluminum, but I would never waste my time, money, or effort on going in there just to do that modification. I don't think it's worth it. I do agree, however that it does offer more rigidity which in turn applies more of your flywheel horsepower to the rear wheels. (the vibration IS the active absorbtion of horsepower, preventing it from reaching the wheels)