Timing Problem at WOT
 

Recently i installed a set of 4.10's for my 87 5.0 It was running very well at WOT with the stock 2.73's. Now when i want to get on it it sortas stops at a certain RPM around 3000-4000. i have tried retiming it and adjusting the fuel pressure. Please help...

many other mods on the motor

What exactly happens? Does it detonate? Does it just fall flat? What does it do? What rpms did you take it to before? What else did you do? What's been done?

Well when i take it to the strip i shift at around 5000 - 6000 rpms. it was accelerating quite nice. i have a rebuilt 302 bored to 306 with new pistons 10.1 ratio holley systemax II upper and lower intake, 75mm throttlebody 75 egrspacer, longtube headers short h-pipe, and flowmaster catbacks, cold air intake, 75mm mass air 24lb injectors, fuel pressure regulator, stock t5, and king cobra clutch, fully ported and polished e7 heads.

it gets a certain rpm then it just stays their and doesn't want to go past it when i mash the pedal down. i am thinking its the WOT timing in the computer....???

So all you did was add the gears?

yes

well i thinking that the coil is going out, because on a cold start it takes forever to get it going when the starter is still turing its brains out, lol. help if ya can

Sounds like a coil issue, but you should check your fuel pressure to be safe.

Take care,
~Chris

i have been adjusting fuel pressure to get more power but i went back to 32psi -30psi

What happens to the pressure when you shut off the engine?

it slowly drops to 0. i forgot to mention i have a bbk inline fuel pump

Well, it shouldn't move at all for a few minutes (10 to 15). If it's dropping faster than that, you have a problem, and you need to figure it out. Either your injectors are leaking, or there is a crack in the pick up tube in the tank, or, a bad regulator.

the injectors aren't leaking out the manifold the regulator isn't leaking. maybe in the tank

Don't forget about valve float. If you've got old worn out springs or springs too light for the cam you're running, you could be getting valve float that's keeping the engine from revving any higher.

thanks for the advice. i have already threw 2 valves , but li am very lucky no piston or head damage, i got all the keeperps replaced as well as the springs and rockers, with new push rods and lifters

What were your installed springs pressures (e.g. on the seat and at max lift)?

i am not sure i have to check in to that. i replaced the original coil with a accel super coil, i was hoping it would go away but still not going past rpm @ WOT

okay, i called alot of places today and Team Extreme Racing gave me the most clear answer, it has to deal with the rev limiter. i reaserched this on a ford performance book today, when you change the gear ratio's sometimes the EEC equatiosn / functions aren't right and get wrong data b/c of the the change. So Team Extreme Racing told me that i would need a chip or some kind of piggy back for my EEC-IV unit. They recommended a diablo chip, whic would get rid of some of that limiter. BUt not all of it, some GT computers have this problem. But i could get the EEC-tuner for $389 which i can change this limiter which cutes half the fuel until the rpm goes back down.

I am in debate, should i get the Diablo Chip , or the EEC-Tuner? I know little about tuning the EEC, if you could help on some of the vocabulary and tuning secrets, thanx
www.eec-tuner.com

sounds like trouble with the Mass Air Meter.. Its not A REV limiter thats horse hockey in my opinion... they want you to buy a chip or some tuner. look at your mass air. the connection and the meter itself to see if the wire elements are dirty..

Don't you have to change your speedo gear with a new ring and pinion? What are your facory gauges reading when your car falls on it's face? Is it cutting out, like it's missing, when it reaches the 4k? If it's cutting out, or missing, that's what the rev limiter sounds like in my car, but I have an MSD with the rev limiter set at 6K so it might sound differen't then when I had the factory setup.:confused:

How is your state of tune? Cap, rotor, wires...I had a similar problem where the power would drop off at 4300, but otherwise run fine. I heard similar advice about mass air meter, coil, and fuel pressure. Decided to go the easy route first and a quick tune up worked.