Need Traction
 

I am having problems getting traction. i have a 88 LX 5.0 with minor mods and 3.73's.
I get nasty wheel hop in 1st and really bad in 2nd. What are some ways to delete this problem
I've seen no hop traction bars in jegs are these a good deal or would new proformance shocks help
Thanks

I would suggest getting lower control arms. I am running BBK's and love them. I also have Lakewood tracktion bars (the old school style). Lakewood also has lower control arms that are suppose to combine the two parts together, but I don't see how they function that way :confused: Plus I already bough my lowers so why would I replace them? :D I like the older style ones better because you can adjust them more. I removed my rear sway bar to give me better squat on lauch. If you do, your rear end will pick a little more when truning but that is about it.

i agree that boxed lowers do help, but if you want to get a hold on traction i believe the best way to fix this, is with drag radials. i ran mac upper and lower control arms with stock type tires and you could tell a little diff, not much on launches. after i installed the drag radials there is no comparison, they work!! the average life on mine (3 sets) have been between 15K & 20K. almost what i was getting with stock tires from spinning so much.

what size and brand drag radials u running briand?what wheels they mounted on? what type of stang?

Drag radials
 

I was wondering what drag radials I should get also, and does anyone sell ussed ones. What type of Drag Radials can fit on Stock LX 5.0 Tires
Thanks

I'm running 26x8 on a 15x7" rim.

i have the nitto's, 275/40 mounted on 17x9 cobra r's. my car is a 91 GT

Have you done subframe connectors yet? My car had a nasty case of wheelhop before I put in the subframe connectors. IMHO wheelhop is exaggerated by the lack of having a full frame on a stock mustang. Next step would be to replace your lowers, the oval bushings are the next worst part. I would stop the wheelhop before putting on a sticky tire because wheelhop and sticky tires= broken parts.

put your quad shocks back on.....it's the best cure for wheelhop

you dont need to take them off unless your using a 10.5 inch and up wide tire.

or if you wanna be mr fancy pants, go with new control arms ( i love my SSMs) and subframe connectors, maybe throw some adjustable shocks/struts in the mix too....

or just put your quad shocks back on!

I didn't know he'd taken them off? I get by just fine without them on my car.

Granatelli upper and lower control arms from www.neweraperformanceparts.com , they have the best prices.

The reason the factory puts on the quad shocks in the first place is that the factory control arms have so much play in them and the bushings are so weak that they need the added control of the quad shock. If you have sub-frame connectors and good aftermarket upper and lower control arms you will find that the quad shock are just a hinderance to good differential performance. If the tires are also crap then you are still going to have problems. Briand is right on with the Nitto's, they are some of the best street/ strip tires you can get for the money and still drive in the rain reasonably well if forced to. Also tire wear is excellent for that type of tire. I have not seen much better avilable outside of a Hoosier Quick Time Pro, but then again they are a drag tire that is barely legal for the street and dangerous in the rain.

If you are in a situation where you just don't want/can't install quad shocks (like i am becauese of the different mounting of my T-bird Turbo coupe rear) you basically need to address the weaknesses of the stock bushings.
After pulling out my control arms and looking at them it's a wonder how even quad shocks could cover up how bad the bushings are. At least in my bushings i could compress them quite a bit with just my fingers, which is scary because of how much torque/force is generated through the differential against the frame.
I would highly recommend at least polyerethane bushings if not control arms as well (you can get a set of MAC for around $200 for both uppers and lowers).
I'm also going to be running slicks with my Moroso drag springs and 70/30 struts which will help transfer weight to my rear tires.
As stated a good set of tires and subframe connectors will help a little bit, but the bushings are so weak they tend to defect and the quad shocks are there to dampen them (just like how shocks dampen springs, the quad shocks dampen the "springing" motion of the bushings).
Another thing that can cause wheel hop is incorrect pinion angle from ride height alterations or component wear (such as bushings). The farther off pinion angle is the more oscillation there is in a driveline and this can cause there to be a vibration under accel or even wheelhop while spinning the tires.
Hope this is of help, good luck.

I really like my American Racer G-60's(also known as mcreary's). They are similar to MT Sportsman Pro's. I have UPR uppers and lowers. I get bad wheel hop w/ radial tires, but works reals nice with tires that hook a little. I'd try tires first then add suspension parts if needed. You will need the tires either way.

Re: Drag radials
 

289- You definitely won't find used drag radials...ever. They come with not too deep of a tread depth to begin with. That's why they are so scary to drive on in the rain.

I run the Lakewood slapper bars like cyberstang5.0 has. They work great. Subframes would help too. Any type of drag radial, BFG or Nitto will drastically improve your traction too. BFG has my vote. I run 255/50/16 BFG drag radials on stock Ford '91-'93 pony stars that are 16x7in. wide. They hook great for the street or strip. But I run slicks on the track.