changing the oil pan gasket?
 

My friend is buying my stang that is in my sig, basically the only thing that it needs is a oil pan gasket. He wants to put a new oil pan on as well. He called a local shop and they said that they would charge 600 dollars to do the job. That sounds outrageous. I told him that you probably just have to take off the intake manifold and bolt an engine hoist to it to keep it in place and drop the k-member then replace the pan and gasket.
I was just wandering if this is the right proceedure and how hard it is to do. And if it is not the way to do it then what is and how hard is it and how much estimated time will it take?

I have only done one, so I am far from an expert on the topic, but her is my .02:
If he wants to replace the pan, a fair bit of clearance is needed, which adds to the challenge. If he can live with the stock pan, the job is a little easier, provided he takes his time with cleaning the ating surfaces and maneuvering the new gasket into place.

while $600 is far from a deal, the job is not an easy one due to the factory setup. An idea to consider would be to drop the K and install a tubular one while you are at it, as this will not only save you significant front end weight, it will help give you more clearance for the job should you have to do it again, especially if you choose one with a bolt in center section, which makes the job a breeze in the future.

I have only done one, so I am far from an expert on the topic, but here is my .02:
If he wants to replace the pan, a fair bit of clearance is needed, which adds to the challenge. If he can live with the stock pan, the job is a little easier, provided he takes his time with cleaning the mating surfaces and maneuvering the new gasket into place.

while $600 is far from a deal, the job is not an easy one due to the factory setup. An idea to consider would be to drop the K and install a tubular one while you are at it, as this will not only save you significant front end weight, it will help give you more clearance for the job should you have to do it again, especially if you choose one with a bolt in center section, which makes the job a breeze in the future.

If he can resist the urge to replace the oilpan and it's in 1/2 servicable condition, then clean the area of the leak with some fast orange then squeeze some rtv silicone into the crack and he's all set. $600 vs $5. A day's work versus 10 mins work. Actually, he could probably unbolt the pan and pull it down enough to feed the gasket in around the edges without any k-member droppage, if I remember my ford oilpan setup at all.

crazypete: I thought about the silcone idea but I didn't know if the engine heat would wear out the silicone and it wouldnt work, thus just making more of a mess.

I will see if the pan can be droped just enough with the k-member still in place and see about sliding the gasket into place.

thanks guys for your help.

You could just jack up the motor with a block of wood on the jack and put it on the balancer. That should give you enough clearance to get at the gasket without dropping the k-member. It's definately a job though, my friend paid a shop $400 to do his. ~Brian

Easiest way is to remove the entire front end k-member and steering...
http://www.dariusrudis.com/mustang/g...s/griggs07.jpg


JUST KIDDING. (I was doing a k-member install and an oilpan swap)

VeNuM: isn't that taking the risk of bending the crankshaft or the ballancer though?

I was told this by an auto mechanic at a fairly reputable place, said the wooden block is crucial, he said it only needed to be raised 2". My oil pan gasket isn't that bad so I'm waiting a year when I swap out engines. ~Brian

I tried to change my gasket by jacking up the engine with the motor mounts disconnected. My Chilton manual claimed this would work. I could not get the engine up high enough to get the pan clear of the K member. The pan would get stuck between the K member and the motor plate (the thin metal plate between the bellhousing and motor).

I was able to change the pan successfully in my Chevelle this way. Also only jack the motor from the center of the oilpan. I used a block of wood between the jack and pan. The block needs to be somewhat wider then the pan to work, this spreads out the force. Did not put the slightest dent or scratch on the pan.

As a last resort before wheeling over the engine hoist, I slipped in the gasket and bolted the pan back up. I had the new Felpro one piece gasket with the 4 plactic screw in tabs. This allowed me to snap the gasket in place, then push up the pan, clicked into place, even the metal side rail braces too. Of course what saved my *** was the old gasket was a one piece too, and it came out in one piece, very ugly floppy and torn, but one piece.

Not my idea of fun , but neither is a massive oil leak.

It can be done and its best to get the Fel-Pro one piece gasket with the locating pins in the kit. Raise the motor and prop it up under the trans or motor mounts to hold it in place. Take off the rack bolts and drop it, don't have to remove the tie rod ends, just loosen the nut and slide it forward off the K-member. You should be able to drop the pan far enough then to replace the gasket. I did this proceedure when changing an oil pump before. If you want you can take off the oil pump and pick up and the pan will come out. Not easy but if you take your time it will come out.

thanks guys for all the replus you all have been allot of work, ill let you know how it works out.