Hard to start/high initial rpms
 

I've had a sh*tload of work done on the car...things like the IAC valve, coolant temp, and throttle position sensors were replaced...and it's got BRAND NEW 19 lb/hr fuel injectors. It's running a very steady 13 degrees of timing on 93 octane gas. It's got decent wires, new plugs, a new cap and rotor, and a new Blaster TFI coil.

This problem has been here all along, since before and after the repairs, and I've had people tell me this isn't normal behavior. The car is a little hard to start all the time, even after it's been thoroughly warmed up. It'll crank and crank or a good 2 seconds each time. Sometimes I can let my finger off the key before it actually 'starts' and it'll start itself. That's the first problem.

Second is, when it starts, the rpms fly up to around 2000, and slowly fall down to around 1000, until I tap the gas or let it warm thoroughly or give it another minute or so, in which case it falls to a normal idle of around 700-750.

It throws no check engine lights, and runs great besides this! What could be going on...it seems to me like it's getting extra fuel. Could the fuel pressure regulator be the cause? I want to check my fuel pressure with a gauge via the Schrader valve, but none of my friends have one and they cost like $45....I'm broke.

Thanks guys!

Fuel pump. There is not too much fuel, there is not enough. Change the fuel filter, if that doesn't help you might want to change the pump. But you need to get a reading on the fuel pressure when you first turn the key to the "on" (primes the system) position before starting the motor. It should without delay shoot up to at least 38psi immediately. If not you may have cloged filter or weak pump.

Maybe my neighbor Chad will have one... My only obstacle to this is getting the damn fuel pressure tester. They dont have these available for rental at DAP/Autozone do they?

I agree it could be fuel filter/pump but you might want to check all of your vaccum lines and make sure the upper and lower intake gaskets are sealed(spry carb cleaner around the intake and vac line areas.) If you have a line that has a hair line crack in it, it may not idle high when the car warms up or you pop the throttle to (surge) the vac pressure. The same goes for the upper and lower; if the gaskets are sealing up when the car warms up it will quit.......just some more ideas but DO GET THE GAUGE AND CHECK THE FUEL PRESS.!!!

The Schrader valve is on the passenger side of the engine, on a stainless steel line going vertically right? Looks like a valvestem for a tire?

Yes that is the correct valve; Those fuel pressure gauges are at autozone for 'round 35 bucks if you can swing it.

I found them at Autozone, but it was $45...and right now I have $5, 1/2 tank of gas, and I quit my job last night. It's on the top of my 'tools to buy when I get a new job' list though, along with compression and vacuum gauges! And a timing light. I kinda stole my buddy's and he forgot...I guess I should buy my own and give it back huh?? ;)

I guess things are more expensive in FL!!
Good luck on the job hunting....
Later,
Brad

Thanks man..hopefully Mario over at Discount Auto Parts wasn't lying when he said they're looking for someone to do part time, 25-30 hours a week, and over 18. That's me in a nutshell. :D