B cam vs E cam
 

Which cam is more radical the B or E cam?
I know the specs on the E cam. What are the specs on the B cam.
I was told the B cam was more radical.

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'82 GT 351W C-4,BBK headers,Carter 625 carb,Comp.Cam,Flowmaster exhaust.
1988 GT...T-5,bone stock

The B cam will be a have a rougher idle with it's 284 degrees of duration compared to the E-cam which has 282 degrees of duration.

The E-cam has more lift though than the B-cam,the E-cam has .498 valve lift versus .480 for the B-cam.

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http://home.dencity.com/Mustanguy/PatrickG.JPG
Paxton Blown 87GT
ICQ#91504337

Oh God, this debate again.... http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/rolleyes.gif j/k

The B cam is made for manual transmission equipped vehicles (hence its E.O. for stick cars ONLY), and the E for automatics. The reason? Simple: duration, as Mustanguy pointed out. Even though the B has less lift, the duration makes up for it on the top end by what I've seen.

It looks like you're running a C4 auto, so I'd go with the E unless you have some sort of unholy stall and gear combo. Here's an interesting situation, though: my buddy is running the E in his '89 GT but it's a stick. It runs pretty strong (like a cheetah on crack above 3000 revs), but lacks the low end grunt. That's probably not a fair evaluation since he has stock gears with a stock fuel system (and mostly other stock parts), not matching the 2.02-valved Windsors he has on there. Needless to say, once it's moving there's no stopping that 'Stang!

The idle of the E is still pretty sweet with just a little noticeable lope, but that highly depends on where you set the idle speed too. I'll be running the E cam with my setup this summer which includes 165 AFRs, Cobra intake, a Lentech valve body in the AOD, and various other goodies. The 3.73's should complement it ver well, hehehe. /me wipes evil grin off face

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Capri306, Moderator, The Mustang Works Online
1979 Mercury Capri, 5.0L -- C4 -- 2.73
1987 Mustang LX Notch

Really?

Hmmm, I was think about going with the E cam, but my car is stick.

If the duration is better for stick on the B cam, but the lift is better on the E, could you not run a B cam with 1.7 RR and get the best of both worlds?

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Driving: 1998 F-150
Far way in Edmonton==> :(
1995 Mustang GT

A B with 1.7RR would be a good compromise. I had this debate a while back when figuring out my combination, and I ended up with the F cam, its got 288 duration and .512" lift w/1.6RRs. Its definitely a stick cam though, as it really kicks ya in the pooch at 2,800-3,000 and pulls to the limiter.

The E cam (in the FRPP catalog) makes peak HP at 5500rpm and torque at 2500 rpm.
The B cam makes peak HP at 5100 and torque at 3300.
The F cam makes peak HP at 6000 and torque at 2800.

Well to get back to the point of 82GT's post, the B will make more power than the E in a slightly different powerband.

CAPRI306, it's interesting that you say that. When I had my engine rebuilt, I put an E cam in it, and it works great, and it's a stick, and the rest of the engine isn't quite stock either. The shop that did the work said that they have build several engines with that cam with good sucess. But I agree with your assesment of the power range. I believe my car pulls just like a stock mustang up to about 2500 RPM, but over that, it really pulls hard.

When I bought the cam, basically I needed one that would be emissions legal. The E cam is, the B cam is not. Not that that's a big worry to most of you.

But to answer the questions, yes, the B cam is more radical than the E cam. But both are a definate improvement over stock.

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See my 1985 Mustang GT

I got a manual trans and I've got no complaints w/ my Ecam. To each, his own.

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'90 LX 5.0; 12K original miles (no sh*&); 3.55 gears; pulleys;Edelbrock Performer Heads; BBK shorties; MSD 6AL box w/ blaster 2 coil; Motorsport E303 cam; Pro-M 75mm MAF; BBK 70mm TB; Eibach spring kit; Southside welded subs; K&N cone filter charger; Hurst shifter; fiberglass turbo hood; A/C-less; rear seat-less; cat-less; 2 chamber Flos; Corbeau racing seats (fronts);
30# injectors; JMS Chip; 190 lb fp; TFS track heat Intake (12.299 @ 113)

I've heard the B-303 in a GT40, and it had a pretty good lope to it.

The B cam doesn't rock the house until over 3000, on a carbed car the powerband of the b cam seems to be up to 6000-6200 rpms, especially with 1.7 rockers. It does have a noticeable idle at 750-800rpm, I set mine at 950 and the lope is a lot less noticeable.
Emmissions testing would be a problem with the B cam.

The E, F, B and X cams are all recommended to be used with manual transmissions.



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351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible

The reason I asked is because there is this guy who has an '87GT converted to MAF with the E cam,a 315 stroker kit, roller rockers and all smog crap removed with flowmaster mufflers and everything else is stock. He is running a 5 speed too. Is it just me or is this setup just a few more mods of being totally awesome!! He says it will turn low 13's as it is right now.
He also wants to trade me for my '88GT


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'82 GT 351W C-4,BBK headers,Carter 625 carb,Comp.Cam,Flowmaster exhaust.
1988 GT...T-5,bone stock

I use the E and would recommend it. Friends have switched from B to E cams and have run the same mph in the quarter before and after(mph is an indication of power, so both were making the same amount). They switched from B to E because the E has better street manners (e.g., more stable idle and improved low end).

Believe it or don't, I've heard the B cam was really intended for use with 1.7 rockers. That makes sense given its relatively low lift.


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Russ L
'91 LX
Procharger, 3 row intercooler, extrude honed Cobra intake, Mac full Length Headers, 30# inj., 73mm C&L, 75mm tb, E303 cam, 289 rods, ported E7 heads, MSD, T-Rex w/255 lph Walbro, 5 lug conversion, Cobra R wheels, 3.27 gears and Moser Axles.

i have the B with 1.7's and worst part about that combo is the lack of torque below 2,000 rpm. anything above it screems

I have a e-303 in my 89 notchback aod, and it has no low-end at all, but once it hits 2500 or so it really moves. Coarse I think my off-road h-pipe hurts my low-end some too.

how can an off-road H-pipe hurt low end performance?

Low back pressure on exhaust can hurt torque.

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351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible

So how about a B cam with 1.7s and a smaller exh.?

It's all about the tradeoff dinomite. If you want strong low end, don't do too much in the way of engine mods. Port the E7's, HO cam, intake. You'll pick up some good power, and your car will retain it's low end grunt as long as you keep the exhuast matched to that combo. If you are putting in aftermarket heads, B cam, 1.7's, and an intake, you want the exhaust to flow better so your new engine can really pull where it's supposed to, higher in the rpms. It shouldn't hurt your low end with the aforementioned combo, because if you are matched, you'll have some much lower than factory gears in it. The gear's torque multiplication should way offset the loss of torque from the exhaust. Of course the actual cam, and heads may not be built for the low rpms either, but really, in that kind of combo your car should never see 2500rpms in a race. http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/biggrin.gif