looking for a 79-95 convertable what to look for?
 

what should I look for in a convertable that could cause me issues or be expensive? i don't have much experience with convertable cars. thanks!

I've got a 90 LX. I've had two years and bought it from original owner who took very good care (and I'm in Florida and don't have to worry about snow). I can't seem to get it leak free even though I've replaced all weatherstrips. Rear power window motors fit only convt. I took mine apart and fixed it. Other than that no real problems other than normal FOX body stuff. Sure is fun crusin with the top down. Oh one thing I did do is add strut tower brace. It did cut down on some of the rattles. I also plan to put sub connectors on too. Good luck on finding one.

make sure the top is in good shape and works..new top and glass can get $$$... I've never had a prob with the hydraulics on my 84... but check for leaks on any that you are interested in..

get subframe connectors when you get one... makes a big difference in the way the car drives..

Convertable stuff...
 

First of all, convertables are the BEST foxes out there...

of course, I am biased...

anyway, here goes.

1) Top cylinders can be visually inspected for leaks while the top is down by looking directly downwards with a flashlight at the top of the cylinder where the chrome strut protrudes outward. Look for leakage of red hydraulic fluid.
each cylinder = $140

2) The hydro/electrical motor is accessible from behind the rear seat, (just two bolts on the lower corners of the seat and it's out) look at it and actuate the top with the motor exposed looking for leakage at the motor or unusual sounds from the motor itself. New motor = $200

3)Weatherstrip condition, top pillar and header...ensure good resiliency and reasonably flush fitment with the windows.

4) Electrical motor rebuild is easy and cheap, the nylon bushings that wear out over time are widely available and less than a dollar and viola, working motor.(you can use the general purpose kit for all motors including the quarter windows contrary to popular belief)

5) Convertable motor mounts are better than stock foxes and convertables also come with frame stiffeners from the factory (although I have and fully recommend full length welded heavy gage tubular steel subframes)

6) The inside of the header where the windshield mounts to the car is very susceptible to corrosion and eventual rust and leaks. I thought it was deteriorated weatherstrip and spent the bucks to buy new ones when it was the goop they seal the windshield with that had deteriorated. DO THIS TEST...close the top and spray water from a hose directly at the windshield along the weatherstrip and valleys and look for leakage.

7) Realize the interior is going to take a beating from the sun.

8) Most importantly, drive around really fast with the top down and savor the good things...

the only really BAD thing about a convert is that if you race it.. at 13.99 and quicker you need at least a 5-point roll bar..:mad: