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-   -   Help with building Motor (http://forums.mustangworks.com/showthread.php?t=40275)

289 11-19-2003 12:54 PM

Help with building Motor
 
Hi I have a few questions about my 89 5.0 motor I am now taking apart to put a cam, roller rockers, intake, TB.

1 How or where do I disconnect the Fuel lines from the fuel rail

2. What is the best way to change valve springs without removing heads

3. How snug to I make the new 1.7 roller rockers on there studs.

4. If I want to eliminate my A/C do I have to use a kit, or can I find a serpentine belt that will fit.

5. If I'm using an Elderbrock performer intake with stock heads can I just get stock replacement intake to heads gaskets.

6. Where Can I get a gasket to go in between the upper and lower intake for an elderbrock performer intake.

Thanks for all your help

Dark_5.0 11-19-2003 01:20 PM

1 How or where do I disconnect the Fuel lines from the fuel rail

2. What is the best way to change valve springs without removing heads

3. How snug to I make the new 1.7 roller rockers on there studs.

4. If I want to eliminate my A/C do I have to use a kit, or can I find a serpentine belt that will fit.

5. If I'm using an Elderbrock performer intake with stock heads can I just get stock replacement intake to heads gaskets.

6. Where Can I get a gasket to go in between the upper and lower intake for an elderbrock performer intake.
_______________________________

1. The is a special tool to break the fittings loose on the hard steel line of the fuel rail.

2. Remove the rockers and fill the cylinder with compressed air so the valves dont fall down into the cylinder.

3. I think its 60 ft lbs

4. You need a kit unless you want to bypass the power ateering and the a/c.

5. yes you could but I wouldnt.

6.Summit

302 LX Eric 11-19-2003 03:59 PM

3) The rule of thumb is to turn the nut 3/4 of a turn past zero lash, then lock it.

E

289 11-19-2003 04:20 PM

If I remember right zero Lash is when the rocker is just touching with no play, on both the rod and valve
Please explain locking it

bottlebaby91 11-19-2003 04:25 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by 302 LX Eric
3) The rule of thumb is to turn the nut 3/4 of a turn past zero lash, then lock it.

E

Some people say 1/2 turn others say 3/4. When I put my motor together I went 3/4 and they were to tight. If they are to tight you will loose big power. If they are to loose they will be noisy. I say set them to 1/2, let it run and see if they are to loose and noisy. If they are, tightin them just a little more.

The fuel lines disconnect by the front of the intake on the passenger side behind the alternator.

302 LX Eric 11-20-2003 08:55 AM

bottlebaby - good points.

289 - by locking it, I mean tightening the allen headed locking screw that resides inside the larger nut.

E

289 11-20-2003 12:53 PM

Thanks dudes for all your help so far
I have another question now
One of my bolts the holds down the water pump ( a long one) broke at the treads so I'm sure some of the threaded part is in the head , Heres the question, the cam cover does that have threads too cause if it does then I think the part of the bolt is going to hold my cam cover to my head. What do you think
Thanks guys
"My stang feeds on RICE".


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