horrid vibrations
 

here is my little problem. recently my car has developed a very bad vibration. it has progressively gotten worse. it is so bad (not drivable) that it makes my cd player skip at a little above idle (not a cheap one). the vibration is always there whether in neutral, in gear, clutch in-out. i know its not uni joints or tire out of bal. i just replaced the clutch, throw out bearing, and resurfaced flywheel (the problem was there b4 clutch replacement). the harmonic balance was replaced 6-8 months ago. car has not lost power and runs clean. i need any responses asap please its my only car and i cant drive it. if you view and dont have a reply please gimme a ttt. thanks very much in advance

Hey toe, I know you said you replaced the balancer but sure does sound like ths ones going away. I had one that did the same thing Started mild and then got to the point it shoole the whole car and that took all of two or three days. Where in FL you from? I'm in the Jax area if your close I'll help you
Bill

Make sure your fan bolts are tight (I don't know if you messed with them or not). When those are even a little loose, you'll feel a nasty vibration that will also destroy your waterpump.

Make sure your fan bolts are tight (I don't know if you messed with them or not). When those are even a little loose, you'll feel a nasty vibration that will also destroy your waterpump.

Make sure your fan bolts are tight (I don't know if you messed with them or not). When those are even a little loose, you'll feel a nasty vibration that will also destroy your waterpump.

Make sure your fan bolts are tight (I don't know if you messed with them or not). When those are even a little loose, you'll feel a nasty vibration that will also destroy your waterpump.

Make sure your fan bolts are tight (I don't know if you messed with them or not). When those are even a little loose, you'll feel a nasty vibration that will also destroy your waterpump.

Make sure your fan bolts are tight (I don't know if you messed with them or not). When those are even a little loose, you'll feel a nasty vibration that will also destroy your waterpump.

Make sure your fan bolts are tight (I don't know if you messed with them or not). When those are even a little loose, you'll feel a nasty vibration that will also destroy your waterpump.

I double checked my balancer already but just for fun ill go give it a try again anyway, and i took out the old fan and replaced it with an electrical fan so theres no bolts

Make sure your pulleys are on tight also.

I had a vibration just like that. A bolt holding the crank pulley on snapped and eventually the other ones loosened.

It got worse, then eventually the other bolts sheared, lost the pulley, the belt, and the water pump pulley was damaged when the crank pulley hit it.

Luckily pulleys are quite easy to find for these cars...

-steve in nj-

My pullies are fine, and my balancer is triple checked now. i tried to narrow down to ignition and checked the cap and rotor on the distributor, checked all the wires and plugs and all turned out fine. Im at a loss!!!! Im getting ready to just take it to ford to get it over with but i know that will be a pretty penny and i already spent close to $1000 trying to do it myself. If anyone else has any ideas im more than open to any and everything. Thanks for all the help everyone!!!

I'm assuming you've checked your transmission mount?

I had a '65 Mustang a few years ago with pretty similar symptons. Took it to a shop, they said the engine was misbalanced.

Turned out to be a worn out trans mount. It vibrated in neutral, park, all gears, but did get worse at higher RPMs.

-steve in nj-

One easy test is to check compression, you may have lost a cylinder. Other than that you'll probably need diagnostic equipment if it's not an engine or trans mount.

ok thanks guys, ill check the engine and tranny mounts and compression but...how do you check compression?

Two ways:
Inexact way is to take off a plug wire one at a time and if there's no change in that cylinder (doesn't run any rougher) then that's a suspect cylinder. be careful not to become a ground for the coil and shock yourself.

Exact way is to buy a $30/$40 compression tester from an auto parts store and follow the procedures in a chilton's/clymer/haynes auto manual.

Oh ok, I did that...removing the wires from the plug one at a time already and it didnt work. I didnt know that tested compression, i thought there was an actually test i guess its like the second part of your reply with buying that thing from the auto store. But anyway, I already checked that and it seemed fine and i have no power loss, when i step on it it feels the same, just the whole car is shaking is the only difference. I know it has to be engine related because my car shakes constantly. It shakes at all rpms, every gear, and out of gear at idle. Its just worse at around 1100-1800 rpms. im gonna take one last inspection and if i cant find ill have to take it in to ford. I thank you all for all your help again and ill post again with the cause of all this incase anyone else has the same problem

First pull all the plugs and make sure you disconnect the coil wire as well, you don't want to get zapped. Youll have to pick up a compression gauge or borrow one. Screw it into the plug hole and spin the engine over a couple of times and take the reading. Just repeat seven more times. Hopefully there all within a couple psi of each other. Let us know what you find

autozone has a free loan a tool service i have used there tools many times... always been a positive experience:D

Sounds to me like you have lost a cylinder. Check compression, it could be a burned valve or even a blown head gasket. Checking compression is the first thing to do!