Cut front coil springs?
 

Has anyone ever cut there front coils springs??
I have 4 cylinder springs in the front of my car and it sits like a 4x4! The springs are about 3 years old with about 400 miles on them. (sits alot).
The problem is now that since I put the new engine in with just the bare essentials it sits way to high for me! The front sits higher then the back. I want the car to sit apppox. 1/2--1 inch lower then it sit now. Anyone know how much to cut off, or from where (top or bottom).
And yes I made sure they are 4 cylinder springs.
In case you are wondering, I can fit about 2-3 fingers between the tire and fender. I want the fender to come down to the top of the tire.
I also attached a photo.
Thanks

Try cutting one coil out of them. That should give you the look your going for.


-Josh, aka the tireburner

A normal air-powered cutting wheel should do right?
There no need to use a torch, right?

Cutting springs is not advisable to begin with, but do NOT cut with a torch, whatever you do.
The heat weakens the srping, and itwill sag even more over time. Cold cut them, by using a cutoff tool.

Nothing wrong with cutting springs as long as you don't expect them to perform the way they're supposed to. For a drag car (straight line only) cut those biotches. I cut about half a coil off of my 4 cyl springs and the car sits at about stock height with a stripped down V8 sitting on them. I wish I had cut more. I might do that.

This makes no sense I put 4 banger springs on the front of mine to lower it. The body sits just above the wheel and they are not cut.

Are you using an after market K member or something cause something isnt right.

Nope, all stock stuff.
Nothing, but the bare essentials under the hood. I might just go with coil overs in the front and rear to end all the b/s, just cant afford it right now.
If I cut the spring, won't it act like a stiffer spring?
By the way I included a pic of the engine conpartment to show how little stuff I actually do have in it.
Thanks

The ride height depends on the weight distribution so your results might be different than the other guy's. I put the 4-cyls on all four corners of my car and ended up cutting 2-3/4 coils out of the front and 2 coils out of the rears to get the height where I wanted it. My car basically sets in the weeds, for weight transfer purposes. My 26x4.5 E/T Fronts were basically tucked up into the wheel well with this much taken off the fronts. My car sits low enough that I can't slide my 3-ton floor jack under either end without lifting up on the car.

Ok..., what struts are you using, 70/30,90/10 or custom? (I have 70/30's)
I basically want the same thing(the car in the weeds);) but still hook hard at the track.
And will my 28x10.5 slicks still fit when lowered that much? (15x8 with a 5.5 inch backspacing).
Basically, I guess what I am asking is do you have the same size slicks on your car?
Thanks, I really appreciate the time and effort:)

Do you have a side pic of the car sitting still?

420nitro did you flip your tensioner?


-Josh, aka the tireburner

I assume your talking about the belt tensioner?
Flip it ...it depends what you consider flipping it. I shaved the nipple on the back and pulled up on the tensioner, then tighten the bolt. No probelms, ran it like that for the last couple engine combos.

If you are not running a/c or power steering you can use a forward rotation water pump off of an 83 T-bird and just loop the belt over the crank, alternator and water pump and leave the tensioner just like it is.

Thats how I run mine.

28x10's on Bogart 15x10 with 6.5 backspacing. I had to do some mild manipulation on the inner fender well. The rear has UPR Pro-Series lowers in the stock locations with AVO shocks. Up front it's 90/10 Lakewoods with 150# coil-overs and a UPR Pro-Series K-Member kit (complete). My fronts actually rub on the top of the inner plastic fender well when I land from the wheelie. But the car hooks to 1.44 times.