Gears-Brand & Install advise (installing this weekend)
 

My friend just got a set of 3.73's from Steeda. First, are these as good as FRPP Gears as far as fit/noise/etc.? I'm gonna help him install these along with rebuilding the carrier and installing new axle seals/bearings. I have a few articles and talked to someone who knows about gear installs so I have a good idea what to do, but any info on specs for lash/preload/etc for the carrier/pinion would be good just so I can compare. Also, is Redline 75/90 gear oil good (2qts?)?
Also, I was looking to get a set of Pro 5.0 3.90 gears, anyone have experience with these? If they're about as good quality as Ford Racings then I'll use them, if not I'll go with Fords 3.73's or 4.10's (probably 3.73).

Any info is appreciated.

This post refers to 8.8 gears.

When using FRPP gears usually no changes need be made except for 4.10 gears. 4.10 gears usually need about .002 taken off the pinion shim. Some ring gears need to be lightly sanded on the I.D. to help slip on the carrier. Don't overtorque ring gear bolts i.e. no impacts allowed.

Replacing carrier bearings is a bear without the proper tools. Only replace if you have the proper tools. Clamshell pullers and a hydraulic press are a must for the pinion.

If using other than FRPP gears Pinion depth needs to be checked.

You need a new pinion nut. Use the old nut to hammer out the pinion. Some years need to be hammered really hard to get the pinion free of the front bearing.

You will need the strongest breaker bar and long pipe to get the proper preload on the pinion crush sleeve. Pu Proper preload is achieved when there is just enough drag on the pinion to spin it no more than one turn.

Backlash should be about .006" to .012" or what ever looks right to you . But as a minimun the gears should turn free with caps torqued down with some play.

Blue check the gears with some lithium grease in the drive and coast conditions. Just imagine acceleration and coast and simulate that by hand. Tooth contact should be centered and full width of tooth. Centered contact is most important .

Mike

Sounds good, is it possible to use an impact gun with the air pressure turned down some to tighten the pinion/crush sleeve? I had a large breaker but it broke, plus I'm not sure I'm gonna have very much room being were working on jackstands. If it's possible to get the pinion on just right as long as I'm careful with the impact gun I'd prefer that, but I'm sure I can find a breaker bar/pipe if you think I really should. Also, any ideas on who makes the gears for Steeda? I'm probably gonna check the pinion depth being I'm not sure.

You can use the impact on the pinion but it will run out of steam long before you are done. We use a 0-600 ft-lbf torque wrench with a doubler extension (came with the wrench) and I am working it pretty good. The problem is keeping the pinion still enough for the impact to work.

If you place all the driveshaft bolts back in the flange and you have a long thin steel bar then you can hook the thin bar up over the control arm and use your breaker bar to tighten. This may take a while but it is better than removing the pinion and doing it again.

Also when you jack the car let the rear suspensin hang down. Take off the wheels, remove the shocks ( watch the brake line!) at let it hang low for best access. We do these on a two post lift so we don't need to pull the shocks.

Do you have the new Gears? I looked at steeda's site and their pricing is inline with FRPP. That is the retail pricing from the catalog $189. That is what we charge. The gears should say something to i.d. them.


Mike