head pics, need opinions...
 

Here is my right TFS TW head. After looking at the valves closely, it looks like the oil is coming from up top still. The exhaust valve looks the worst so I think it might be the guide.

block pic...
 

The piston looks pretty good. I did a compression check and 5 and 6 matched, 7 and 8 were within 10 pounds of 5 and 6.

I don't think that it is an oil ring looking at the piston top compared to the valve.

What do ya'll think?

piston pic
 

damn, forgot the pic...
Incidentally, the gasket looks pretty good too so I don't think it was bad.

cleaned up head pic...
 

looking better, but still need to polish a little more...

How many miles are on those heads? Looks like possible valve guides to me. Are the valves and springs stock Twisted Wedge?

cleaned up pistons...
 

Yeah,
Everything on the head was stock, as far as springs, valves, retainers, locks, and seals.
I have read that you should replace TFS springs and their seals if you want to be safe.
I am getting a new set of Viton positive seals to be safe but I don't know about the springs. I have had this motor together for 3 years, but only have about 25k miles on it.
TFS thinks it's the seals (as of a couple of hours ago).
Also, can I re-use the ARP head bolts? They appear to be in good shape. I don't want to seem cheap, but the gaskets and seals are costing me.
Oh yeah, TFS doesn't think it is the guides because they claim to have fixed that problem a long time ago. Also, they said if it was the guides, it would probably show up in more cylinders.
One note: The retainer is a beotch to get off on the exhaust valve on number 5. When I compress the spring, the stem just won't pop out like the intake valve did. Maybe the seal is bad there and has crudded itself. I don't know. Back to work.
Thanks for the input...

Got any decent machine shops around there who can check the guide clearance?

Andy

guide clearance...
 

yeah, I am going to bring the head with me to the local speed shop, racer walsh, which is pretty good.

Hopefully, I can get it checked out while I pick up some seals and gaskets.

That would be the best thing to do. A shop will be able to tell you alot more than a bunch of guys on here looking at pics. You can only see soo much looking at a pic.

Although personally I wouldnt, you MIGHT be able to reuse the head studs if they are not torque-to-yeild style studs. For a performance head though, 25,000 miles can do a lot to em. Maybe its time to have the valve-seats re-ground and new valves/springs, etc, put in! They should be able to find the exact problem at the shop with a little testing and measuring though. Let us know what you find out.

Exhaust Valve seal
 

This is redundant, but I just got back from the shop.
Everything on the heads looked good, really good actually, except for the exhaust valve seal.

Springs tested good too, heads getting dipped and valves getting lapped. Ready by Monday. Time enough to install a 331 kit in the short block?

With regards to your question about reusing the ARP head studs, my opinion would be to re-use them. Torque to yield bolts like the OEMs would definitely need to be trashed, but with ARP studs, I think you're just fine.

Just my humble opinion.

E

It's also ARP's opinion. They only yield somewhere around 75%, so you can retorque them a few times before you need new ones. If you overtorqued them on accident...it might be time for new ones.