Strengthen Rear End
 

Im about to drop a 347 in my 90gt its gonna make about 325hp N/A and over 400 on n20 and I wanna build up my rear end but also have a budget. I have 3:73 gears which are staying I was thinking about a nice rear diff. cap and also new axles, I also head of people welding there axle tubes into the pumpkin, is this ok for a daily driver also I have access to all sorta welders and metal so has anyone mad supports themselves, please help this is my daily which is gonna see the track once in a blue moon but action on the street often.

The only time I would even consider welding the tubes to the pumpkin is if the housing was on a "Jig' so it stayed true. I have seen people weld there housings on the car and it comes out slighty twisted,bent, warped, or what ever you wanna call it, from the heat of the welder. Not worth the B/S, unless you do it right!

As goes for the rest of the parts...
I would recommend 31 spline axles from like either Moser or Strange.... 33-spline for a race car because you can only get the carrier as a full spool at this point.
A good carrier like an Alburn-Pro or Detriot Locker is a very good piece. Dont care for the ARB or the Eaton.
Might as well replace all the bearings while you are there and get C-Clip Eliminaters.
While on the subject about axles you might wanna convert at least the rears to 5-lug if the funds are available.
As goes for the rear-end girdle...I like the T/A girdle,Moser, etc. I even believe that T/A makes them for every one too....(?):confused: But I can be wrong.
That stuff will hold up in a 3200 pound 9-sec car and live on the street.
Good Luck

First, assuming you've got a nice flowing setup on that 347, you'll be well over 325 n/a. ;)

I agree with 420nitro, except that for a street car I would stay clear of the c-clip eliminators as they WILL leak on the street. They are a great saftey feature on a strip only car though.

I'm running the following on my coupe:

- Auburn Pro
- 3.73
- 31 spline Strange axles (5-lug)
- T/A girdle cover

Great for street and strip for me.

Good luck,
E

How many people do you know that had leaks?
I know my first pair did leak but, it was because the housing was cut wrong. Cleaned it up and to this day, no problems. Been about 4 years now.:confused: Maybe I am just lucky I guess.
Later

I had the same problem as 420nitro, but fixed it up and so far so good. I used a little more silicone this time to.

Thanks guys thats about what I was thinking, I just read about welding the axle tubes on this months MM&FF magazine, Im going with a girdle and the 31 spline axles but wanted to convert all the hubs to 5lug and was gonna take them off a mark vii at a local parts yard as long as there in good shape, any of you do this?

Since he has a daily driver, I would recommend sticking with the c-clips, that's all. A track only car, or one that sees the street on occasion would be fine.

I only know of one person who had the C-clip eliminators and it leaked. Then, when I was building up my rear-end, I consulted with Moser. Moser said that the stress from turning corners would cause leaks.

Maybe you guys have found a way to prevent the leaking?

E

Well if I run 5lug I rather do it all around then just the rear so I can swap rims if I want also how hard of an install are the axles and Auburn or Detroit posi kit, because Im usually a weekend mechanic with my dad when I install stuff we just work in my yard.

Its not that hard. It's having the right tools.
Need a dial indicater, torque wrench, a hyd press for removing and installing the carrier bearings.

The best way to retain the axle is with 9" style housing ends and a custom axle and retaining plates. All the major rear end shops do this on a regular basis and it is by far the best way on a street car that goes hard around corners. Everyone I know that has went c-clip eliminators and takes the odd corner like most street drivers (rather than a no sway bar, bias ply'd big and little, soft springed drag car that creeps around the slightest corner) has had leaks and has had to fix them.