sub frame connectors
 

Whats the best sub frame connectors on the market these days. If I install sub frame connectors can I run mid 12's with out the added strength of a roll cage. I hate a cage in a street car but don't want to twist up my sweet 89 coupe. Will be dropping in a 350H.P. 351w with a 5 speed mainly for the street but may see some 1/4 mile. Thanks for the help....

Best one is a matter of opinion, but I would recommend one of the sets with a cross bar that attaches to the seat bolts. Get them welded in too instead of just bolting the subframes.
I dont know for a fact , but I would imagine that the rollbar rule is about safety, so the subframes wont help there.
BTW is it 12's or 11's that require a cage? (I dont know much about 1/4 mi rules:confused: )
If you really want to stiffen the car up, go for a engine crossbrace and reenforced torque boxes too.
Hope this helps,

J

I think that 11.99 or faster needs a rollbar for fixed roof cars and 13.99 or faster for verts. The times may be different for IHRA tracks.

Re: sub frame connectors
 

The other sub-frame connectors mentioned are very good connectors. If you can...why not make yor own connectors? I made mine the entire length freom torque box to just before the K-member with fish plates all along. Obviously I had to make the round tube countour the floor plan but not that hard.
Good Luck

I picked up a set on Ebay for about $40 , there just square tubing and also have the seat bolt cross bar, I noticed a great difference in my 90gt after the install the car felt much more stiff and handles corners much better, I have a complete stock suspesion set up also so spend the money and get them. And do weld them in, you'll never have to worry bout em again. Just my .02

I run at an IHRA track which reqires a roll bar for 11.50 & quicker. I'm running 11.80's subframe connected with no roll bar & the car flexes a good bit. If the roll bar is tied in right It will help with body flex. If you run slicks or hook hard on DOT's you don't want to be with out sub frame connecotrs. The first time I ran slicks with no sub frame connectors, I sheared the floor bolts of the drive shaft loop & chipped the paint on the passenger door with the fender. I also have a wrinkle in the body under the 1/4 window (coupe) from hi rpm launches & 1.5* sec. 60 ft. times.

I have homemade ones on my car. It is rectangle stock steel and bent twice in a brake that are full length. Mine are welded.

James:cool:

Thanks guys. Thats what I wanted to hear 7K331. I may not have the motor to run mid 11's but a 351W thats a bundle of torque with a 5 speed still could twist up a body on the strip with slicks and a good hookup. Will for sure get some frame connectors and think about the cage.

The best "basic" subframe connectors on the market are the full-length versions from Maximum Motorsports. Any of the "bolt on" connectors are useless. The only way to make them effective is to weld them in.

If you have good fabrication skills, you can install real subframe connectors, which will run through the floor and literally connect your two subframes and also give a good foundation to install a cage. I am in the process of installing a WC setup from Griggs Racing, which also moves the lower control arm mounting points forward.

I've got several sets of subframe connectors. They are the same ones that are on the car in my avatar. They are a weld on design and they work great. I also have driveshaft loops that will fit perfectly between these connectors too.

Let me know if you are interested

Andy