How strong are aluminum driveshafts?
 

Also do they come balanced? Thanks

It came balanced for me, rode a little smoother, i would suggest a saftey loop if you have a high horsepower application, but thes d/s are probaly stronger than stock, the yoke is what i would think could fail or u-joint before the actual d/s did.

I dont have a saftey loop and imo, dont feel i need one unless im putting out about 375 hp. But they can handle a lot http://www.mustangworks.com/interact...rd/biggrin.gif

------------------
90 lx coupe: Mac cold air fenderwell, accel supercoil,advncd ignition,3-core radiatr, FMS alum D/S, Black magic fan, 3.27grs, 3chbr flows.
Best time: 14.20(on 225/60/15 firehawks)
Best mph 97.80
Best 60' 2.1
next mods: subframes, 3.73's

I heard they're stronger, but more importantly it's weight off of a moving part. Losing weight is great, but losing weight off a moving part is even better. The only time you need a safety loop is when your running slicks. Every track I've been to requires a drive shaft safety loop when the car is running slicks, never heard anything about a horsepower level where they're needed.

------------------
91 LX 5.0
Z t-5, Centerforce DF clutch, Pro 5.0 shifter, 3:73's, Vortech 73mm Mass Air, Accufab 65mm TB, BBK underdrives, BBK unequal length headers, Bassani x pipe, 2.5" Dynomax Super Turbo cat back, Kenny Brown Super Subs, Factory Five Control Arms, Crane HI-6S Ignition, and more to come!

Chris your right, im sorry i was mistaken, although im at the track often, i never run slicks, but i can see why it would be necesary with slicks, i heard of the driveshaft rubbing the floorpan on hard acceleration using slicks, but thats probaly due to weak motor and tranny mounts, not sure though.

They are definately stronger, but (as stated earlier) less rotating mass. One thing to make sure of is the balancing weight. I've heard of some shafts having the balance weight stuck on with adhesive (like some wheel weights). Inland Empire Driveline has em for Mustangs and they do come balanced. Check their site here: http://www.iedls.com/mustang.html

------------------
347, 279/284 .493/.510, TFS TW, Stealth, 750, Flowtech hdrs, Dr. Gas X, 2 Chmbr Flowmaster, MSD 6AL-Dist.& SS coil, Art Carr C-4, Currie 9" w/3.55, alum Drv Shft, susp mods, 4 wheel power disc
In a 66 coupe

Ry95GT,

I ran a 1.418 60' time with my aluminum driveshaft. They do come balanced.

90dpscoupe,

You are making 375 hp and only running 97 mph in the 1/4 mile? Something doesn't sound right. I'm making 317.6 hp and running 121.67 mph in the 1/4 with a 10.657 et. I realize my weight is probably much less than you but you should be running 11s at least. Maybe your dyno was on the blink that day.


------------------
88 347, Twisted wedge heads,Comp Cams 224/230 cam, 1/4=10.718 @ 123.02 mph

As always thanks for the help guys.

No he said "dont feel i need one UNLESS im putting out about 375 hp".

In my opinion a safety loop is a good idea for any car. It doesn't matter how much horsepower you have if that front u-joint goes you're getting pole vaulted.
That happened to a guy I know in a dodge conquest, he's lucky he wasn't killed.

Thanx for clearing that up shovelnose, but i do wish i was making that much hp http://www.mustangworks.com/interact...rd/biggrin.gif

Well I've had everything happen to me listed in this thread. The weakest point is the u-joint. I had mine fail on my at the top end of the track. It tore the ears off the driveshaft and oblonged a hole in the yoke. I would also like to say that you won't get pole vaulted because of the H-pipe. My BBK took a pretty good beating, but it held the driveshaft up. I would however recommend getting a safety loop. I still haven't got one for mine, but then again the car hasn't been on the road since my driveshaft let go.