Spark knock?
 

I have what I think is spark knock(doesn't sound like a can of marbles so guessing it's not pinging). I had it for as long as I can remember, I'm the original owner. Anyway to reduce/eliminate it? I'm running 93 oct. and 9 degrees of timing. Tried couple of diff. brands of 93 still the same. Thanks.

Does it do it all the time??
even under no load?
Or only under load?
Does it do it only at a certain RPM or all over.
How much load does the car have to be when it makes that sound?

I only notice it when there's a load on the car say like getting up to speed be it on the street or highway. Can't say that I've noticed at idle or free revving. But I'll check that out.

So let me get this straight. You use 93 octane fuel and run 9 degrees of timing? WoW Thats pretty harsh man, and there no point to doing it. If you wanna gain power you advance timing and upgrade octane. On 87 octane I'd go no higher than 5 degrees advanced from the stock 10 degrees. Theres been a lot of issues on octane lately and most people think that higher is better but its the exact opposite. No wondering your engine was doing that. So try 87 and 5 degrees advanced or just before it starts pinging(bb's on a tin roof). Let us know how that works out!

Kenne Bell suggests a minimum of 92 octane and 10 degree base timing for this blower. I'm going to try spraying some cleaner into motor while running (if it's even possible). By the way what does a bad lifter sound like? Would that be something you hear even at idle?

I was looking at your mods profile and it doesn't list any injector upgrades.. Are you still running the stock 19lb injectors ( yellow ones )? if so thats bad man. with a blower your should be at least 30lbs, man with a kenny bell, i would go 36's... how long have you been running the car since the blower install and what kind of mileage on the motor? reason I ask, maybe a head gasket is on the way out, it will ping from cross firing from from the adjacent cylinder. a compression test will detect this.. Fuel is your worst worries... to lean and your motor will melt down. buddy of mine with a paxton blew his motor from not enough fuel pressure and to lean. gas quality today sucks, so if your fuels system hasn't been upgraded, then time to do so and hopefully it will go away. if not something might have got hurt. i hate to be harsh, but better check it all now then later. a lifter knock will make itself known at idle. nice tapping sound. also can be confused with a rocker arm too. roller rockers do wonders for valtrain sound. let me know what you find.

Yeah I'm still running the 19's but w/ FMU (12:1 disk). FP is 75-80 at 5#'s of boost. I know I'm at or close to maxxing out the stock inj. and when funds become avail I'll step up and get correct tune for setup. But this prob has been there long before I did any upgrades. I think I'm looking at this wrong. The sound I'm hearing may be the ping that's associated w/ the 94-95's. I've heard several things others have done to correct that...upgraded fuel pump (190, 225), changed sensors (I think ACT or ECT not sure which). Any ideas. Thanks for the input so far guys.

yea with 19lb injectors thats still pretty hearshon the motor... The cars are lean to begin with stock and with the super charger its have to be crazy lean. You can try taking the valve covers off and re torquing the rockers. That could help ya. Run a hugher grade of fuel 93 or 94.. also a good thing to check, pull out a Spark Plug and see what it looks like.. If its white and depositless, then your way to lean and its contributing to you knock.. let me know..

I pulled a plug last week (#6) and it looked brand new (no deposits). Guess I'll have to upgrade inj/pump sooner than I expected. Thanks.

yeah, thats way to lean.. very unsafe. i'm not trying to make you spend money but your at the point of hurting your motor.. I mean that lean is brutal to the head gaskets and pistons.. the gaskets could already have been compromised , hense more knock... u said you have a adjust fuel pressure regulator right? if not yet, pull the vacuum hose off the regulator and plug it. you'll be in better shape.

I did have it on but had to take it off for the SC to bolt up (it was hitting the intake on the blower). What does it do if disconnect the hose...increase the pressure and keep it there no matter the engine load/speed is? Thanks, all this helps build up my SC knowledge. :D

Did you try backing your timing off until the ping goes away? (I don't remeber if Ford had knock sensors by 1994-95 or not, if they did that may be something to do with those years of cars having the pinging problem. )

I was thinking of trying to play with the timing some (backing off). Also thought of trying spout out once I got the pinging taken care of. I think it was '96-up that have the knock sensor.

when you take the vacuum line off the regulator it set the pressure to max at all times. which in your case wouldn't hurt you at all. If when you installed the supercharger , you had the timing set, then i would leave it alone. if not back it down a degree or two. regardless however, no matter what you do, I can't stress it enough, your way to lean, especially for that kenny bell your running. summit racing you can get a set if 30lbs injectors for 239.00 255lph fuel pump for like 129.00 and the mass air for 179.00.. its not to to bad but think of it this way, 575.00 for that or 2 grand for a rebiuld. its worth it! Now also I was thinking, are you running a chip? A chip could help with the timing curve and injector pulse.. that could richen it up too, but you still need the injectors. But its a start..

I don't have a chip. So that got me to thinking between a chip or a tweecer. I know w/ a chip you have it set for your setup and have the experience of a tuner/dyno/airfuel but with the tweecer you can constantly change and not need retune w/ upgrades. But I hear it has a kinda steep learning curve. Decisions, decisions.

chips are great in all, but in your case i would get the parts that you need first ( iinjectors, mass air, pump etc ) in first so that you don't cause any damage and also get the full advantage of your motor. If i was my car that is exactly what I would do first.

Yeah, I was going to do the injectors first than to get it to run right w/ them I was trying to decide btw chip or tweecer. I was going to stay away from a calibrated MAF just because my understanding was that the sensor is altered to whatever injectors in the car to get it to run right, instead of altering the EEC. I have the stock 70mm MAF and an 80mm Cobra MAF.

ok , well, the way it works is, when you upgrade injectors, you have to upgrade your mass air sensor everytime. so if you buy 30lbs injectors you need a 30lbs calibrated mass air sensor, 24's - 24 lb mass air etc etc... you can't just upgrade the injectors. the will never run.. you have to change them together. the pro-m mass airsare great, granetelli's are too.