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Nassss!!!!
Whats going on guys, heres the deal I want to put NoS in my car and I was wondering what should I know about it? as far as i know there are 2 system dry and wet I have a Stock engine with 53000 miles now ..mods are the usual 3:73 gears , off road h-pipe, flows, advance timing, k&n... I dont have the money for new heads or a supercharge but I want to get my car running a little bit faster. Should i put Nitrous? Will it messed up
my engine... thanks in advance any help will be appreciated.. JM |
No Nitrous won't mess it up if you treat it right. You can't just ride the whole bottle in one shot or anything like that, you should probably go and do some research on it before you spend the money installing it, you need to know what stage of a kit to get and things like that. Good luck.
------------------ -Brent "BrentK7" Keltner BrentK7@Gamershome.com ICQ# 5413021 -End of Line- |
If you use it right its ok, you could probably do a 100 or 150 shot on your engine. NOS is a company that sells kits (Nitrous Oxide Systems), the thing you are going to put in your engine is N2O, or nitrous.
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If you do buy a kit, get a dry one. Wet kits are alot more dangerous, and are not for beginners.
Take care ~Chris ------------------ Retired Moderator MustangNet My site: JimPorterRacing RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!! |
Ok...A friend of mine is selling a wet kit for $300 and he will install it for $100 (He has a shop)Is that a good price? Should i get it? Is that a good deal? I've been told many times that wet kits are very tricky to play with and like Chris said is not for begginers He has also a Gt40 intake for 399 that i'm planning to get...
Help me decide here guys JM |
Wow 400 installed I would get it the cheap kits are 450$$ not installed!!!!!!!
------------------ 1988 LX 5.0 3060lbs (full Tank) 14.90@100.2 On a Gtech Drivetrain: 2.73 Stock Gears (New Gears Are in my house3.55), World Class T-5, Lakewood Bellhousing, Summit Adjustable Cluch Quadrant & Cable, Alumminum Driveshaft, Flaming River Manual Steering Rack Suspension: MAC Control Arms,Maximum Motorsports Front Grip Package, H&R Sport Spings, Bilstein Shocks Engine: Steal Mounts, Ram air, K&N, Under Drive Pulles Exhaust: 1 5/8 Un-Equal Length Mac Headers, X-pipe W\cats, Edelbrock cat\ba |
Do you understand why a wet kit is so much more dangerous than a dry kit, and why this is especially true for beginners? You might as well by the other manifold too because if you make one little mistake, your intake will turn into shrapnel. A wet system injects the charge with added fuel in the intake, an intake that was never designed to have a highly combustable fuel combination in it. If you so much as have one valve out of adjustment, or have your timing too far advanced, or ANYTHING AT ALL that would cause even the slightest backfire through the intake, the entire top end of your engine will completely grenade. You really should go with a dry system until you are better aquainted. This is all I'm going to say on the matter. I'm not here to preach, and you're not here to be preached to, but I've seen this happen, and I studied nitrous systems through a course NOS offered 10 years ago. Admittedly, things have changed somewhat in ten years, but not the danger of a wet system with a rookie. Good luck.
Take care ~Chris |
Listen to PKRWUD, a wet system is nothing to mess around with if you don't know much about Nitrous. So what if it's a good deal at $300, a new intake/hood and what else you will fry is not worth it.
------------------ 87 GT, 4 inch cowl hood,17x9 Cobra R's/255/45's,GT-40 heads,Crane 2031, Edelbrock intake, long tubes headers,h-pipe,Flows,BBK cold air, Mass air,70mm MAF, 1.7's, 1" spacer,underdrive pulleys,Pro 5.0, King Cobra, Adj. fuel Reg., Lakewood Lift Bars,50/50's,subframes, 4.10's. Best time 12.759 Best MPH 106.79 Best 60' 1.695 Visit my site at: http://www.geocities.com/cobrar93_2000/MyPage.html |
ok guys so i have gears 3:73, flows, subframe, off road h-pipe, k&n filter, eibachs drag sprint with gsr2 shocks and struts from kyb's..what should i do next? remember i dont have to much money to spend probadly $500.00
Headers maybe? or some guy told me pullies but i'm dont want to have problems with my alt thank u guys I wont use NOs JM |
JM- Don't get me wrong, nitrous is a blast (pun not intended)!!! Don't shy away from it, just shy away from a wet system. i think your other plans are good, and N20 will certianly be a great addition, just do it right.
have fun! Take care ~Chris ------------------ Retired Moderator MustangNet My site: JimPorterRacing RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!! |
there are other options. easiest being to study up on the wet system so you do understand it. there is reading material out there. it is actually a better system to use for the engine as the fuel is added directly rather than with a dry system which compensates in other ways.
however, your best bet is the 750$ manifold system. which injects inbetween the upper and lower intake directly into the ports, right above the fuel injectors. this is almost the same as injecting the n2o through the fuel system as it enters at roughly the same spot. it is the safest system and the most powerful. (other than some of the top dog systems and their direct ports) it is also nice because you can hide everything and look less like a power adder than someone with a normal dry or wet kit. i personally wouldnt care and would want a purge valve cause i think they are cool as $hit, but that is my opinion. ifyou want to creep up and not tell people what you got, than this would be perfect for that. regardless, you can hide it or show it, just wanted to give you a couple more ideas. i almost bought a manifol system but the store had it on backorder for over a month and i decided to rebuild the motor with my cash instead after all of that. perhaps in time,,,,,, http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/smile.gif Q ------------------ Quin, 87 GT,306,forged/cut pistons,edelbrock head\intake,steeda#18cam,1.7rr,MSD Blaster tfi coil,A9L,pro-m75mm,24#inj,accufab65mm,2.5"pipes,hooker headers,dynomax exhaust,3.73 gr,110 lph fp,moroso cold air,ASP pullies, weld rims See my engine on user rides. I see your shwartz is as big as mine, now lets see how well you handle it! |
I have been running a wet kit for a very short amount of time. But I think if you study up on it. its not a big deal at all. None of it is really that dangerous. Just understand it. Your only afraid when you dont know how it works.
Skyler ------------------ -1989 Saleen Mustang #406- TFS TW Heads, E-303, Edelbrock intake, 70mm TB, 73mm MAF, 24lb injectors, 1 5/8 shorties, Off Road H, 3 Chamber flows, Jaz Race seats, Back seat removed, sub-frames, Roll Cage, and a 80 shot of N20. 12.55@107 Motor |
Which is exactly why I think a racing and/or nitrous rookie should stay away from a wet kit. I would hardly call you a rookie, Sky. You don't drive a Saleen, you drive a Skyler. Is there a single bolt on that car you haven't turned? A dry kit for you is fine. I'm not saying dry kits are bad, just not a good choice for a rookie. Put it this way, anyone who wasn't aware of what I wrote above before I wrote it has no business owning a wet kit. Know what I mean?
Take care ~Chris ------------------ Retired Moderator MustangNet My site: JimPorterRacing RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!! |
I'm looking into a n2o dry kit....who's got the better system (NOS, Nitrous Works, Nitrous Express)??? I'd really like it to be hidden and people not to know I have it. Also, taking into consideration my current mods, could I handle 125 or 150?
------------------ '90 LX 5.0; 12K original miles (no sh*&); 3.55 gears; pulleys;Edelbrock Performer Heads; BBK shorties; MSD 6AL box w/ blaster 2 coil; Motorsport E303 cam; Pro-M 75mm MAF; BBK 70mm TB; Eibach spring kit; Southside welded subs; K&N cone filter charger; Hurst shifter; fiberglass turbo hood; A/C-less; rear seat-less; cat-less; 2 chamber Flos; Corbeau racing seats (fronts); 30# injectors; JMS Chip; 190 lb fp; TFS track heat Intake (12.299 @ 113) |
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As for wet vs. dry, I'm not getting into this debate again. I use wet systems, and prefer them for a variety of reasons. Both types work, so buy whatever makes you comfortable. For some basic info, check the site in my sig. Happy juicing. ------------------ Moxie Racing The Nitrous Oxide Information Site |
I'm not going to say a wet or dry kit is better or more consistent(which is what they say about wet kits)
I always use a dry kit...it can be installed in about 2 hours, and so safe it's unbeleivable. You want bang for the buck??? get sprayed. My old notch went 12.50's on a 75 shot...stock engine, just exhaust, suspension and 4.10's. NOS #5115 kit is still the best buy and been in the business longer than anyone else. The Edelbrock Dry kit is a ripoff of it...it's exactly the same and just as good for a few bucks more. The ZEX dry kit is kinda cool, but a little more expensive too. Easier to hide, because it has the selonoids, regulator, and everything in one box. Juice rocks........there is no substitute. ------------------ '88 coupe...stock as a rock. Check out http://www.burnouts.stangnet.com 11's coming soon!!!! Heads,intake and cam are all here |
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