Gear Drive Timing Assembly
 

I have decided to go with a gear driven timing assembly on my '94 GT. Will this fit under the stock timing cover? Does anybody have this setup? I am trying to trouble shoot now, before I remove my current timing chain.

Noisey and very adpet at transmitting lower engine harmonics to the valvetrain, so look for increased wear and decreased life in the ignition and valvetrain.

What he said. The gear drive does absolutely nothing for a typical motor. Stick with the timing chain and get an adjustable one if you're going to replace the stock unit. If you can afford it, go timing belt. I've got a belt drive with a crank trigger setup, and the timing is dead nuts solid, stable, does not move whether its at idle or at 7000 rpm. A gear drive's not worth the noise price of the steel they're made of IMO.

Have to have front cover machined according to specs. There's a ridge on the back side from the factory that needs machined off, and there has to be a certain amount of clearance between what's left of the ridge, and the idler gear. Mine was .010"

Yes noisy, Yes hard on disty gears, Yes VERY accurate timing without the Zillion dollar belt drive. You decide.

Re: Gear Drive Timing Assembly
 

Why do people use belts over chains? Would not a belt stretch more than a series of steel links?

I was horrified when I worked on a old 79 fiat spider (they have twincam in 79!) and discovered than the valvetrain was run off of 2 timing belts. I mean...if a belt breaks, SMACK and you are replacing vales, pistons, rockers and pushrods.

I wanted to go with a pete jackson geardrive years ago to get that gear whine but was completely dissuaded from it by the local speed shop. Apparently it gobbles some horsepower (maybe 5) in the process of turning all those gears.

Frankly...stick with the timing chain and check your timing every month or so. This is free and doesnt require you to change anything

Re: Gear Drive Timing Assembly
 

Well, my biggest concern was if the gear drive actually fit. I have already purchased the gears, so that is what will be going into my car. A reputable source informed me that the gear drives will last the life of the motor and will never have to be messed with. The lose of 5 hp for the security of not losing any timing is something I can live with. Thanks for everyone's input.

Re: Gear Drive Timing Assembly
 

My opinion and experience, Belts suck, they break all the time and stretch, especially in High RPM motors, gears are so noisy and worthless, extra metal in the motor for bearing wear and general wear. THE CHAIN IS THE WAY TO GO.. the factory Ford Roller chain is more than enough to deal with whatever is out there. The stock Roller Chain is plenty..

Re: Gear Drive Timing Assembly
 

A good aftermarket belt drive is untouchable. Chains are a joke in comparison, and gears are for rednecks. Gear drives aren't all that for accuracy either, they wear out! As mentioned above, they introduce harmful harmonics into the valvetrain that wouldn't otherwise be there, and in my opinion, the valvetrain is the most important system in the engine.

Chains do work the best for what you pay, and that's what I'd recommend for 99% of the populace, the other 1% benefitting from the dead-on timing and RELIABILITY of the belt.

Re: Gear Drive Timing Assembly
 

Timing belts won't stretch or break at the rate that the same will happen with a chain. Nearly all high performance motorsports utilize the belt rather than a chain or gear setup. Talk with Comp Cams, Danny Bee, Australian Musclecar Part, Jesel, any of the makers of belt drives and they'll tell you that the rate of failure for belts is nearly zero. The timing is dead nuts on and with the belt drive you can adjust your cam setting (advanced/retarded) in less than five minutes. This is a huge benefit when you're dynoing the motor/car.

Re: Gear Drive Timing Assembly
 

I agree with Jeff on these points, thats why I found it odd that Procharger went with a chain drive in there race blowers.

Re: Gear Drive Timing Assembly
 

Blowers are a bit of a different situation. A blower takes a tremendous amount of HP to drive, especially the all-out race versions turning high RPMs and mondo amounts of boost. The chain drive was their attempt to avoid belt slippage/breakage. A camshaft takes significantly less HP to turn, even with hugh solid lifter spring pressures.