Removing smog will do what?
 

I'm in the process of installing my new 347. It has the holley kit- heads, cam, intake. I've got a 347 stroker kit, It's got adj. fuel psi regulator, 160 thermostat, chip. I've still got stock injestors, throttle body, and MAF. I ran out of money, but I want the car for this weekend. My problem is that I am removing the smog pump, and EGR valve. I'm sure that this will cause a code to set since the EGR position sensor will not be pluged in. Will this cause the ECU to run in open loop? And if this does happen, will it cause the engine to run lean due to more cubic inches? I was thinking about fooling the ECU by installing a resistor into connector for the EGR sensor. If anyone has some info I'd really appreciate the help, and if you think of other problems I'm going to have please let me know. Also what should the fuel pressure be set at? What throttle body, MAF, and injectors do you recommend?

well it you basically want to get big enuff injectors so you dont have to run high FP..i would go with 36# injectors..at least 30#..i mean are you ganna try to get this thing in the high 10's or are you ganna just drive it on the street..cuz that combo will b capable of some sick time once its tuned..i would suggest a custom burnt chip after said and done..i would also go with a Pro-m 80mm mass air meter..
and as far as TB it depends how high your ganna rev it..i mean with the cam you have in it i would suggest a 70mm..but if you get a big cam go 75mm
then depending on the rod ratio of the 347 you built will determain how high you can rev it safley..


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1987 black notch(ex 4 banger)
DSS 306 w/ main support...Elderbrock 6028 heads..gt-40 intake..24# injectors...70 mm tb..77 pro-m...accel 300+..mac full legnth..tremec w/ pro5oh...full MAC exhaust,off road h-pipe,long tubes, catback...ron davis radiator..subframes, control arms...CFDF II..o yea holley FPR sucks..dont buy one..
AIM=onesillynotch
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When the EEC-IV senses an emissions system failure, most times it will just disable it and set a code. However if it's a failure bad enough it goes into FMEM, or limp mode. I have yet to see an FMEM condition due to EGR, though. EGR isn't important at WOT because it's simply shut off completely. On the other hand, the computer takes a holistic view of the engine regarding how it responds to different conditions; by this I mean on the street and normal cruising conditions -- where it spends the majority of the time learning more about your engine. This means that if you don't have EGR, it will not only sense the EGR valve not opening, but also a richer condition than what is supposed to be. Installing a resistor isn't going to work since the computer executes a command to control EGR flow, then looks for a corresponding signal to verify its operation.

If you plan on having this car as a daily driver, I'd leave the EGR and air pump on there, if nothing else just to prevent codes and any compromise in driveability and mileage.

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Capri306, Moderator, The Mustang Works Online
1979 Mercury Capri, 5.0L -- C4 -- 2.73
1987 Mustang LX Notch

for what its worth, i have an 88 5.0, it has a modified truck upper and lower, ported stock heads, long tubes and free flowing exhaust. this thing no longer has any, thats any at all emissions on it .no smog pump , no egr , no anything , it has only three vaccuum lines to it, just the bare requirements. it hunts for idle for about 10 sec. when starting up, after that it runs perfect and strong. and gets good mileage.