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Hp guessing
Hey guys,
I was wondering if you guys could give me a estimate on what you think my hp may be. Its a roller 302 block bored 30. over, Flat top pistions, Reg crank. E303 cam, Roller lifters, svo aluminum 180 heads, world with a world class tranny. Just trying to get a general wonder about the hp i cant find a dyno around here. Stock intake, stock mass air, and stock throttle body. |
Re: Hp guessing
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altogether though, your combo reminds me of my first motor(RIP) it will run real good but you'd definitely be much happier with a different cam. Tony |
Re: Hp guessing
hmm okay, i just got a 80mm mass, 75 bbk throttle, and a gt-40 intake
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Re: Hp guessing
well i agree with the cam thing..lose that cam. if you want max performance out of your engine.
the gt40 intake is great...the new mass is good. you prolly will still have to change the injector...i suggest a 30lb. i would also do the k&n thing. being a roller doesn't mean more hp...it only gives like 6 hp more. after you do that to it imo, it should be somewhere between 350-400hp. the camshaft i reccomend is a 280/280. good street and strip cam without destroying the fuel mileage. good luck |
Re: Hp guessing
Alright so i will start looking for a new cam, I am buring a k&n cold air induction breather, 350-400 hp is good though i think, how much hp will i have with the e303? What about 24lbs or is 30lbs better?
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Re: Hp guessing
Egads. Nobody that knows their way around an engine would suggest that a roller cam setup wouldn't offer a great deal more power potential, especially with the popular cam grinds today, than a flat tappet setup. Unless of course danistanggt was confused and thought you meant roller rockers?
The E303 is functional and offers decent peformance but has a reputation for idle surge. It's not the best cam you can buy, but it's not like you're going to pick up much by going away from it with your combination. Interestingly enough, the 280/280 duration danistanggt seems to be recommending is just shy of the E303's 282/282, not that advertised duration means anything whatsoever in this case, anyway. It's even more important to have a roller setup because of the rest of your combination. You should be producing max power in the low 5000s, and the heads you've chosen flow better above .500 lift than the GT-40 Irons or GT-40 P heads. Even so, the SVO heads are not as aggressive as Edelbrock, TFS, AFR or other aftermarket manufacturer products. This would allow you to run a cam with moderate lift while keeping the duration in the low-mid 220s in order to keep the drivability and mid range power by making the most out of the relatively long GT-40 intake runners. Make sure if you go with a higher lift camshaft that the valve springs you have will be okay at the new lift height. The GT-40 intake is okay. It makes good midrange power, but doesn't have the flow or runner length the highest performing EFI manifolds offer. Do not expect more than 275-285rwhp with the setup you plan on running, and the estimate above of 260-270rwhp based on the stock intake is probably a little high. You'd more likely be in the 240-250rwhp area with the stock intake manifold. The stock 5.0HO intake manifold is the weakest component in the HO's setup and it should be the first thing that gets replaced. Next the heads and last the cam. Stick with 24lb/hr injectors unless you plan on adding forced induction or nitrous oxide. The stock 19lb/hr injectors would probably be sufficient with your setup assuming you add an AFPR, which you should be doing anyway. Even so, it's better to be safe than sorry. 30lb/hr injectors are massive overkill, and they're likely to cost you fuel efficiency and horsepower due to the very low pressure you'd be running at the rails (around 25psi to maintain stock injector cycle.) The 75mm T/B is overkill on a N/A car with your specs, and it will probably make the engine a little sluggish on the low end. In addition, the 80mm MAF is unnecessary as you could easily get by with a 73-77mm unit without a problem. Even with a custom grind cam, I don't expect your combination would make more than 290-300rwhp without head porting and possibly extrude honing the GT-40 intake since it's not an easy intake to port due to the thin wall design. Just my .02 |
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Then what am i going to have to do in order to get my motor to 375hp??? I have a set of roush 202 heads, some harmelm and sharp roller rockers... would that help.. what else do i need to do, i at minimum need 350 hp
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Re: Hp guessing
375hp N/A from a 5.0 EFI engine? That's about 310-315rwhp, and a tall call for a streetable 5.0.
You'll need some more aggressive heads like AFR 165's or the TFS Twisted Wedges or your Roush heads. You may need to fly cut the pistons for the cam, and run an aggressive camshaft in the mid-upper 220s for duration and the .540-.560 lift area along with a Holley, TFS-R or Edelbrock Performer RPM type intake manifold. Make sure you're geared with 3.73s or 4.10s to get a good hole shot as your engine will be lethargic under 3500rpm and won't make peak power until probably around 5800rpm. 375hp is enough to run mid-high 11s at around 115mph in the quarter. The Roush 327AL crate engine with a very high performance carb setup, 2.05" ported and prepped Roush aluminum heads, a custom grind cam, along with a 10:1CR is only rated at 410hp. |
Re: Hp guessing
Hey so what about a 286 duration .542 lift? and a elderbroke performer rpm 5.0 intake?
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Advertised duration differs by manufacturers, and it's not necessarily the best tool to measure true flowing duration on the heads. Ford's advertised duration is at .003" of lift, which is basically nothing. Other manufacturers use up to .006" of lift for advertised duration. Duration at 0.050" is what you should be quoting. I would guess from the specs you provided the cam's true specs are in the neighborhood of: .542/.542, 226*/226*@0.50, 286*/286* adv., LCA 108*, LSA 108* That's the kind of information necessary to gauge camshaft performance. Personally, I think you're a lot better off going with your current setup and a supercharger. |
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