OK, decided to start with springs + struts, which ones?
 

HEY GUYS, thanks for the info on the rear-end sliding out, I've decided that when I get paid in september, I'm going for springs and struts..

So, what do I go with?

Here's what I'm thinking, Eibach lowering springs (1.5" lower front/rear) that are progressive rate, Coba R spring rates..
(is that a bit too harsh?) what are some decent spring rates for a 94 Coupe? I want stiff, but, not back busting ! (and I can handle a pretty rough ride!) : )

Struts, I'm thinking KYB AGX front+ rear with Gasajust Axle dampers.. I like the idea of adjustment to my needs, but, are non-adjustables setup good enough??

And for frame stiffening, I'm thinking weld-on subframes (from my local shop)..

Sound good for a start? (then I'll work on control arms, panhard rod, torque arm, etc)

thanks !

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94 GT (triple black)
K&N, FMS 9mm, FMS 95 17" Cobra R's, Aluminum Driveshaft, 3.27, 12* timing, MSD Coil, 180* thermostat, MAC Shifter/Gauges/Pedals, Euro Clear Projectors & Corners
My CAR!
Email me: jetuomi@yahoo.com

As far as your choice of springs/struts/ shocks etc - what do you plan on doing w/ your car? Street or strip? The weld on subs are a must for every stang.

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'90 LX 5.0; 12K original miles (no sh*&); 3.55 gears; pulleys;Edelbrock Performer Heads; BBK shorties; MSD 6AL box w/ blaster 2 coil; Motorsport E303 cam; Pro-M 75mm MAF; BBK 70mm TB; Eibach spring kit; Southside welded subs; K&N cone filter charger; Hurst shifter; fiberglass turbo hood; A/C-less; rear seat-less; cat-less; 2 chamber Flos; Corbeau racing seats (fronts);
30# injectors; JMS Chip; 190 lb fp; TFS track heat Intake (12.299 @ 113)

OK, my 5 year plan with this car is to have a 12 second street car that can corner really really well !
(and take that power and put it to the road)

does that make sense??

so, basically, no strip for me, cept to get some times to compare too.. : )

Basically any time you reduce weight transfer you reduce traction, so to get your car into the 12's with sport suspension would take quite a bit of horsepower (to make up for the spinning you'll do all the way down the track).
Eibach lowering springs (sport model...not the stiffer ones, make sure to get the progressive rate springs if you want it to be drivable everyday) are a good idea and as for adjustable struts and shocks i think you have to take out alot of them to adjust them and some of the ones you adjust on your car can be kind of vague in terms of adjusting (from what i've heard). KYB or any name brand strut or shock should be good, i'd personally just get a sport valved shock and leave it be (how often do you want it to ride like a lincoln?).
Also, make sure to get Caster/Camber adjustment plates and get your car aligned because no matter how well your car is set up, it's all a waste of money if the tires aren't contacting the road all accross the tire and this is a common problem when you lower a vehicle because you get a (positive???) camber change which causes the inside of the tire to wear excessively and causes wandering when cruising down a road.
Subframe connectors from what i've heard are basically the first thing you should do because no matter what there's no reason not to have them. That's the first thing going on my '89 GT (have the subframe connectors ready to go, just need to weld them in). Since your into corner carving a strut tower brace, from what i've heard help alot in keeping the strut towers from moving and causing hopping or change in caster/camber because of flexing.
Good luck and happy mustanging!

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previous name: 84stangLX
'84 Mustang 5.0 LX
my LX
'89 Mustang GT
my GT

Moved to Windsor Power

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SVO siamesed 351 stroked to 417ci,Yates heads, solid roller,Trans King glide and a little blue bottle
of giggle gas. My Car