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How much HP is too much??? The key is stock bottom end...
Right now I got 325rwhp and about 385hp at the fly wheel. I belive more can be tuned out of the sob but that's all that there is for now. Currently this thing ran the best of a 13.2 with my 18inch wheel and tires that do not grip for **** . However, I have been thinking I want to hit 450rwhp and I'm thinking about putting a blower on the damn car. The only thing holding me back is I'm worried about losing everything when a piston or rod comes flying out. How many of you guys out there are running on stock blocks with insanse horse power numbers???
I'm curiours because some of the things that crossed my mind was a 393 DSS stroker. Howerver that would be too expensive for what I want out of the car. The block itself is cheap but to put it in my 94 with all acessories it would be a pain and costly. I have considered a 351 option but I just don't think that would be all that much horse. The best and cheapest option for great numbers is a blower. Let me know what you guys think. Thanks. |
I trap 123 mph and my track weight is around 3000 lbs. I think that figures to around 500 crank hp. This is on a stock shortblock I rebuilt in my basement 2 winters ago. Still runs like a top.
------------------ 1988 Mustang GT 11.8 @ 123 (7/14/01) 1992 BadAzz Wrangler 1993 Explorer |
How many miles are on your engine? What condition is it in? Use a main girdle and ARP studs. You should be fine up to 500-550hp at the crank.
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I'm running approx. 450 horse (325 + 125 n2o) on a stock rebuilt bottom end with arp bolts and good rings etc.
Make sure its not revving too high like 7,000 all the time, and that youre not always pushing that power level and you should be okay. Assuming forged pistons. |
As far as pistons go they are stock
hyper(however you spell it). The block has 36k on it. Yeah I was going to have get the DSS main girdle and the bolts are ARP. They are not studs. I try to keep the revs at max 6400 rev limiter is around 6220 I think. But it still will hit up to 6400 before it catches.. |
Unless your car is 93 or newer your pistons are forged stock.also in 90 they switched to moly rings witch is good.up to 92 they say the stock short block is safe up to 500 horse and can handle bursts of more a stud girtle will usually get you in the neiborhood of 600 depending on a multitude of varibles.I pearsonally know of two guys that are running almost identical setups using kenn bell blowers and they are bolth just over 500 horse at the crank (Calculated from RW horse dyno measurements).with 325 rw horse you should be running 12's mabie its time for a seprate set of "stickies" for the track.Also exgmguy sorry but if you have 500 horse at the crank you should be running alot faster than 11.8 at 123.
------------------ 91GT Flowmaster 2 chambers,off road H pipe,mac equalength headers,F303 cam,high lift valve springs ,svo 1.6 roller rockers,19*timing,410's,BBK cold air kit,hurst shifter, Pullys,World class T5 MSD 6al box. Ran 13.5@101 with stock headers and air box. |
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the stock rev limiter is at 6250, is the 6400 reading of the stock tach? if so, your tach is off by 150. stock tachs arent' accurate, does anyone know why this is? how come aftermarkets are? what tells the stock tach rpms? |
My short block is bone stock & original (~100K kms = 60K miles). Only upgrade is a high volume oil pump. See sig below for ET & mph.
This is my second season with the blower & I drive the car on the street (ie pump gas) alot. I know the stock block will eventually crack, but I have a mexican block waiting in the wings... I personally think that it's the "luck of the draw" when it comes to stock short blocks. I know of guys with less power than I have that have cracked them only after a short while. I also know of a few guys with more power than I have that are still going on strong on their non-girdled stock short blocks.... I run a fairly safe tune on my car & haven't even dyno'd it with the blower yet. ------------------ 91 coupe 3.73's,long tubes,2 1/2" exh,ported stock t-body,ProM-77mm cobra intake,edelbrock heads,B303,1.72 rr's 36lb inj's,tremec, & a Paxton NOVI 2000!!! 11.020 @128.95 on BFG Drag Radials (275/60/15) |
Darek, just get the bottom end built and you won't have to worry about throwing a rod! http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/smile.gif I say get some new pistons along with a stroker crank and nice rods bolted with ARP bolts... Sure you will spend another 1,300 bucks but you wouldn't you rather spend 1,300 then go and spend 4,000 on a broken block? And then you will even get more RWHP. You will be in the 11s soon enough especially if you throw that blower on it and get a set of tires that can hook.
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From what I read about your car, I think it would take a blower/turbo/n2o just fine.
------------------ '90 LX 5.0; 12K original miles (no sh*&); 3.55 gears; pulleys;Edelbrock Performer Heads; BBK shorties; MSD 6AL box w/ blaster 2 coil; Motorsport E303 cam; Pro-M 75mm MAF; BBK 70mm TB; Eibach drag-launch spring kit; Southside welded subs; K&N cone filter charger; Hurst shifter; Cervini's 3" turbo hood; A/C-less; cat-less; 2 chamber Flos; Corbeau racing seats; FMS 30# injectors; JMS chip; Holley 190lb fp; TFS track heat Intake (12.299 @ 113 - 1.78 60') |
I am just guessing around 500. That would be around 420 the wheels. I don't think I am too far off......
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