BBK 70MM JUNK
 

I have had this TB for about a year now, and i am finally through with it. Buying a Motorsports 65mmTB today http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/biggrin.gif

It's Sticky, as in, if i downshift, i have to wait for the rpm's to drop below 2k, or i get a sudden jerk. The only way i have found to help the slow returning idle is to unplug the IAB set stable idle then plug it back in(she idles at like 950/1000)

Anyone else have problems with the BBK 70mm TB?
Any Problems with the motorsports 65mm TB..?

.dave

I have not 1 problem with my BBK 70mm....

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347 Stroker Motor: Balanced, Cobra Transmission, Extrude Ported and Polished Upper and ported Lower, GT40 Milled Ported and Polished Heads, B303 Cam, BBK 1 5/8 Headers, 30lb Bosch Injectors, Holley AFPR, March Underdrive Pulleys, Perma-Cool Fan, 3-Core Radiator, Accel Performance Coil, Accel 300+ Racing Wires, Ram Air, K&N Filter, 73mm Vortech MAF, 70mm TB, FlowMaster Exhaust w/BBK Offroad H-Pipe, Hurst Shifter, 3:55 Gears, Ram Clutch, Cross Drilled Rotors, AC and Smog del, rear seat del.

The only problem I've had w/ my BBK TB is it whistles, which I don't consider a problem. I kinda like it! http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/biggrin.gif

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'90 LX 5.0;12K original miles (no sh*&);3.55 gears; March pulleys;Edelbrock Performer Heads;BBK 1 5/8" equal length shorties;MSD 6AL ignition w/ blaster 2 coil;FMS E303 cam;Pro-M 75mm MAF;BBK 70mm TB; Eibach drag-launch spring kit;Southside welded subs;9" K&N cone filter charger;Hurst shifter;Cervini's 3" turbo hood;A/C delete; gutted cats;2 chamber Flomasters;Corbeau racing seats;FMS 30# injectors;JMS chip; Holley 190lb fp;TFS track heat Intake (12.299 @ 113 - 1.78 60')

I'm running a 75mm acufab and have had no problems.

The mirror polished finish looks great!

The whistle doesn't bother me either, i actually like it too! But if i take my foot off the pedal at anything over 2000 it's like ther's resistance holding the plate from opening, anything under 2000 and she's good to go.. weird..

.dave

I have the Holley, but if yours has small screws holding the plate on, you better watch it, 'cause I had the small button head screw rattle loose and get sucked in my motor. I don't have the IAB or EGR on , no problems, just like running with no choke.

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90LX, T-5, Vortech V2-SQ, Holley, Twisted Wedge Stage1, X-303

PrpleMonster I had the same problem with my BBK 70mm TB. My throttle stuck and it idle'd weird ect.....Never figured it out.

PrpleMonster I had the same problem with my BBK 70mm TB. My throttle stuck and it idle'd weird ect.....Never figured it out.

If unplugging the idle air bypass valve helped your problem, why would you think that it was the throttle body causing your problem? That would mean that either the computer felt it needed to add more air by opening the valve or the air bypass valve was sticking open.

I've had my TB for 3 years now and no problems other than the trademark whistle.

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351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible

That was just 1/2 of the problem jim, The slow returning idle was easily cured. From the first moment i put the thing on, it had a "sticky" pedal feel, I hate driving a car that you have to be aware of when NOT to push too hard on the pedal or it will buck/jerk foward!

.dave

Yeah I had to be real careful with girls in the car, otherwise if i gave it a little bit of gas it would stick and make me look like a ******* .

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1989 GT, 3:55's, full exhaust, 4 in. hood, Pro 5.0, All parts for sale now.

2000 Camaro SS-A4 =P

1989 Chevy S-10, EX. Cab-383(500+hp on motor), trick flow heads, trick flow pistons, etc... autometer phantom gauges, "built" 700R4, roll cage, lexan back window, corbeau seats, R.H.S. 5 harnesses, Fuel cell, convo pro wheels, 15x14's with 29x18.5 M/T'S on back, 15x4's on front, nitrous, and so much more!

http://www.geocities.com/i8urvpr/JM.html