Help aluminum headed motor has no power
 

I recently built a 306 with srp 10:1 pistons, twisted wedge heads, track heat intake, stage 1 cam, 70 mm TB, 76 mm mas, 30 lb injectors and a 255 lph pump. I also put a new clutch in while i was in the process.

So i get it in the car and start it up but, it wouldnt idle. Soi worked with it and got it to idle so i could set my timing and set my fuel pressure. I set the timing to 16* btdc and set the fuel pressure at 35 psi. Now the car pops alot. it will idle and rev ok but as soon as i try to move the car it starts to pop. I did have it not popping at all but I readjusted rockers. Before i readjusted the rockers it would let me give it gas but, had absolutely no power.

Can anyone PLEASE help me here i have tried everything. I dont have any disconnected vacuum lines. The only thing i can think of is on the bottom of the upper intake it has a connection that has three vacuum tubes coming out. 2 small ones and one big one. I connected the big on to a hose that come off the fire wall from where all the vacuum lines run to. The 2 small ones i couldnt find any vacuum lines for so i capped them.

I really need help.

Sounds to me like a timing problem, but not sure. try 12 degrees and work from there.

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Michael Wigton
1989 351 Windsor
1964 1/2 Convertible

Are you sure the rockers are adjusted correctly? That will make it feel like there is no power if they are too tight, I ended up 1/4 turn on my rockers to get them set right. Are you sure it was at TDC when you installed the distributor, it could be a tooth off.

Make sure you have the right firing order, I know that is something simple bu that will do it, and bump your fuel up to 38psi it slounds like the popping is a lean pop coming out the MAS.

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sounds like retarded timing to me. ford
hydraulic lifters(roller or not) like to
be preloaded 1/4 of their travel. looser
lifter preload gives you a smidge better
bottom end and throttle response. this
may sound dumb but have you plugged back
in your spout connector jumper? good luck!

At the vacuum tree on the firewall are all 5 of the outlets used. If you are standing infront of the car the second one from the left is not used at the moment.

I do not have fuel pressure with key on and motor not running. What should i look for to cure this?

Ground the lower right lead in the Self Test Connector. This will turn the fuel pump on.

Take care
~Chris

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Retired Moderator
MustangNet

My site: JimPorterRacing

RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR

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PKRWUD you lost me. Are these in the tank?

The Self Test Connector is under your hood. It's the house shaped connector that you use to pull codes. Look at the end of it, where the electrical connectors are, and think of it as a house. You want to run a jumper wire from the lower, right side connector to ground.

Take care
~Chris

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Retired Moderator
MustangNet

My site: JimPorterRacing

RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR

HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!!

The vacume lines on the intake are brake booster (big one), fuel press. regulator (small one towards passenger side), and emissions BS (small one on drivers side), I believe. Also isnt the stock fuel pressure w/ vacume line disconnected 43 psi? John

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ok i got all the vacuum lines right now. Got the car idling and running. It feels stronger than my stock motor at ahlf throttl but, At WOT it boggs bad. It even popped once on me in 3rd gear at WOT.

I have no fuel pressure with key on and motor off. I have no fuel pressure after i run the motor and shut the key off. I DO have fuel pressure while the car is running.
The gauge is good. I checked it on a friends car. This same problem persist with the stock regulator and the kirban adjustable so, i am assuming that the regulaotr is good. The only thing i can think of is the pump. Should a 255 lph pump be loud? It is quieter than my stock pump. Also i didnt put the pump in. A friend did while i was working on the motor.

[This message has been edited by wrathchild (edited 09-29-2001).]

It could be leaky injectors, but I think it's definately pump related. It could also be a cracked fuel line inside the tank. You need to drop the tank and check things out. First off, though, you should clamp off the fuel line coming from the tank while the engine is running, and immediately have someone shut off the engine. Does the fuel pressure remain now? if so, it's an in-tank problem.

Take care
~Chris

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Retired Moderator
MustangNet

My site: JimPorterRacing

RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR

HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!!

Thanks man i will try that. I am going out right now to drop the tank.

Well it turns out it was the fuel pump. WEll not the pump itself but, the house attached to the pump. I let some moron of a friend put it in and he must have use a torque gun cause the clamp was so tight the rubber of the hose was coming throught the clamp.

You have a house attached to your fuel pump??? Must be a big tank!

Take care
~Chris

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Retired Moderator
MustangNet

My site: JimPorterRacing

RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR

HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!!

haha typo.
i meant hose.

My car pops sometimes too.. seemingly like when its cold like its not getting up to temp. runs strongs though just pops sometimes.. any help here is greatful too

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