This chassis is as stiff as a wet noodle!
 

Ok guys, maybe my used 88GT has just had a hard life, but the cars chassis seems very flimsy. I have KB super subs on the car now and they helped a lot, but its still flexing. About once a month if I go up a steep driveway at an angle it'll pop my hatch open from flexing!

So, what else is there. Will a strut tower brace help much? Do they make bolt on rear shock tower braces that work with a fill interior in the car (ie, it just runs through the shock access panels).

I like the car a lot (had it for about 1000 miles), but if I cant make it feel good to me I'm selling it.

Jon
Stock '88 GT
450hp '00 Camaro SS

you could get g-brace, strut tower brace, upper & lower control arms, thats all i can think of.
hope this helps
p.s. dont sell your pony!

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No Smog Pump (Shorty Belt), Dumps At The End Of Stock H-Pipe (Sounds Mean), K&N Air Filter (Stock Air Box), 198.9 rwhp @4200 (235 Motor!!), 285 lbs-ft @2900 (336 Motor!!!).

Full Length subframe connecters that are welded into place work the best. I use the Maximum Motorsports Chassis setup. Go to WWW.Maximummotorsports.com
I have a 90 coupe that had a lot of hard miles on it, once I installed the subframe connectors, g-brace & strut-tower brace it made the car much stiffer and handle much better.

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89 (GR40 Griggs)LX
89 LX Coupe
90 LX Coupe

I have the MM setup too, and it helped a lot, but if you need stiffness in the back, hrmm maybe a pan hard bar and torque arm set up, those are for the rearend area.

A K-member brace would be nice also. Maximum Motorsports there too.

Ok, what is a G-brace? I have long tube headers so it looks like a K-member brace is outta the question. http://www.mustangworks.com/interact...oard/frown.gif

I'll be getting some maximum motorsport lower control arms soon, but thats more of a suspension piece rather than chassis stiffness.

So there is no such thing as a rear shock tower brace? I think that would fix my hatch from popping open.

Thanks for the replies guys.

Jon

Umm, thru the floor 2X3" subframes and a 12pt. http://www.mustangworks.com/interact...rd/biggrin.gif

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93 yellow limited edition convertible
Black top/interior, 5-spd
3.73's, H-pipe, pullies
Best - 14.13 @ 96.5 on street tires
3650 lbs w/ me.

G brace = k-member brace = lower chassis brace

You should try adjusting the hatch! Mine was way off... you could see where it was rubbing paint off. I could also tell that the body wasn't lined up properly when it was assembled... when it comes to mass production, Quality is really something like Job 69.

Sounds like a roll bar would be a good idea. Maybe something like the KB, so it's not too intrusive.

All the aftermarket braces will help but remember it's a unibody car and FORD also used crap metal in the floors. Ever welded anything to it? Sucks burns right through! Best bet to make it as stiff as a rock is full subframes and a cage. Anything less and it will flex!

I have a strut tower brace and subs on for over 5 years I have found that the best stiffening parts I put on was jacking rails and a 4 point lower chassis brace. The jacking rails is a 3/4 square tube and a flat bar about 3/8 thick welded to the lower seam located under the rocker panels on each side of the factory seam. Those helped me a lot. I have a 91 GT and I remember that if I parked on a hump with a wheel on the hump the hatch would not close properly. After the jacking rails installed it was minimal twisting on the car. I would suggest that first. Of course a roll cage will help stiffen the car but jacking rails also help a lot. Just remember to have them welded on a flat surface (a wheel lift where all 4 wheels are on a pan) to keep the car flat like in a muffler shop.

Good Luck

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See my mustang at prime-fe2.lvcm.com/sparkckr/pineapple.html

Ewww...If I were you I'd have that thing checked...take it somewhere, and have the sub-frames checked...Popping the hatch open sounds like something more serious..The best thing you can do for frame/body flex is frame ties, and you already have those. I'd have it checked.

Rob


Rob

Guys, thanks again for the responses.

Where do jacking rails go? How are these different that the subframe connectors I already have?

As for the hatch popping open, I'm gonna make sure the hatch is aligned properly. its always been hard to shut and hard to open so i'm thinking I just need to tweak it a bit. Maybe I should add the kenny brown matrix sub stuff as well before I go crazy with a 4 point roll bar.

I'm gonna order a MM strut tower brace tomorrow..from my limited time on this board it seems MM is the place of choice for suspension/chassis stuff.

Jon
'88GT