Exhaust musings...
 

My car needs some exhaust work. The right-side muffler decided to detach itself, so now I have half an open exhaust.


I'm getting the entire thing replaced with custom mandrel-bent stainless steel. I've decided on Hemi Super Turbos. My two questions are as follows:


If the car is otherwise bone-stock, and I drive almost exclusively on the highway, will I be better off with an X-pipe?


Also, remembering that it's bone-stock, should I throw on a set of equal-length headers? My reasoning is that I'm probably never going to work on the exhaust again, and if it's going to be in an exhaust shop, I might as well put _something_ on it. Do equal-lengths cut down on your low-end torque?

Before you cough up big cake for a custom exhaust, consider a MAC exhaust. The Muffeler is aluminuized steel and HTS coated, inlet and outlet pipes are fully welded on all ready to go. I was able to install it myself with only some wrenches and a Sawzall to cut the old tailpipes off. The system fits the balls and sounds real nice maybe too quiet, and only cost $265. MAC also sells really good headers and H pipes. Their version of a X pipe is the flow chamber which has an oversize X chamber.

According to MAC the 1 1/2" primary equal length is the best header for a otherwise stock motor, good low end etc but a pain for spark plug install, I like the 1 5/8" unequal length headers better. That is my 0.02

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Frank W 90 5.0 LX Notch MAC 2.5"cat bk FMS alu ds, MSD coil, MAC shifter 2.73 gears user site
88 Notch 2.3L FOR SALE! My two Notchbacks
74 Chevy Laguna Type S-3 305 now 454 soon My web site

Difficulty of installation/removal is a non-issue; as long as it doesn't interfere with changing the oil, it's fine.

Headers are usually not maintanance free. You'll need to tighten bolts occasionally and change gaskests after they blow.


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Eric - 89 Mustang LX coupe
302 - Cobra Intake - GT40p heads - TFS stage 1 cam - FRPP 1.6 roller rockers - Naturally Aspirated
3:73 gears - KYB shocks and struts - Eibach springs - HPM Mega-bite Jr lower control arms - HPM upper control arms

I would say go with MAC... they have one of the best kits out there... the PRO CHAMBER is what I have on my car and it is awesome!!! i would get the long tubes and the pro chamber with the mufflers and tail pipes if i was replacing my exhaust basically the full kit... the long tubes might not help your low end torque, but they will help you up top... some people say that it will kill low end, but i don't see why they would... i am a firm believer in full lengths...

Steve

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Project Bird Turd

GNC Racing Performance
Scarzi's Machine Works

I am running BBK long tubes and a Dr. Gas x-pipe with 50 series flowmasters and love them. The long tubes didn't kill my low end torque and the x-pipe really makes a difference up top, also it sounds alot like the nascar race cars at mid to high rpm. I love this set up and have had no problem on my virtually stock 89 engine. If install is not an issue definitely go long tubes! Just my .02.

You can also buy "locking" header bolts that don't need to be re-tightened at basically every oil change (i had to do that with my '84), which i'm going to buy when exhaust goes on the GT. Gaskets will usually blow if the headers aren't torqued evenly or sometimes the headers just warp which will blow the gasket. Your best bet is to get Mac headers, which don't have a single flange connecting all the primaries and having locking header bolts and i believe that will reduce the chances of the gasket being blown out, as long as you torque them correctly/evenly the first time. Good luck,