8.8 Trac lock, Springs or clutches or both...
 

I've got my rear end out and ready for a trac lock rebuild.
From what I've learned it's not too hard to do, just make sure it goes back together the way it came apart. Backlash and depth shouldn't change. I have all the shop tools, manual, and enough experience to do it.
My question is how you modify the factory setup for a better lock. This car sees mostly autocross, highway, and an occasional open road race. Is it true that we can make this thing work better than Ford designed it?
It seems my choices are
1. Stock setup (rebuild)
2. Alternate friction & steel plates
3. Add one additional friction on each side
4. Use a F-150 spring

All these are supposed to help, but which ones (if any) do you guys use.

Any words of wisdom before I start?

Thanks,
Dan


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Spec Service (UHP), Paint, 16x7.5 ALBA's w/BFG G-Force KDW's, TC 3.55's w/disks, K Bell Ramair, March pulleys, Race Magnums, D/S loop, MM 4point rollbar, FMS C springs & strut tower brace, Tokico Illuminas, KB welded subs.

When me and my friend did mine we put it together the same way it came appart,except
he put one larger shim in there. The only thing I know is that spring is a B1TCH to get back in if you don't have the special tool.

Good luck

Also, how about gear oil?
I know about the 85-90 wt with friction modifier good, but is anyone running the synthetics that supposedly don't need the modifier?

Dan

When I did my gears I did the T-Lok also using the alternate stack method which is: shim,f,s,f,s,f,s,f,side gear. Re-installing even the stock spring is a workout! I guess the F-150 would help if you can install it easily enough. I'm running with friction modifier now, but I plan to dump it this spring and just run synthetic. If I get any chatter I'll add the modifier back in.