Question on Clutch Adjustment?
 

I just purchased and put on the BBK Adjustable cable/quadrant.. and i cant figure out how to get it to where the clutch engages 2 1/2 inches from the ground.. as of right now, it engages about 4 1/2 inches off ground.. do i need to tighten the cable, or give it some slack? it seemed when i tightened it, the clutch height got higher. please help?

You need to loosen the cable. I wouldn't drive with it the way it is either. It will most likely slip. I don't see why you guys buy aftermarket clutch quadrants. I hate the feel of most aftermarket clutch quadrants. I modified the stock one so that I can adjust it and it still has the feel of the stock pedal. Seriously, what's the advantage of aftermarket?

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Michael Black
Quantum Motorsports
Norman, Oklahoma

1988 Merc Cougar 5.0 HO, P&Ped heads, 2.25" custom mandrel bent dual pipes, T5 five speed tranny
15.43 @ 91.08mph (not shabby for a 3600 pound car)
60' 2.453 Street tires suck!!!

As you tighten the cable (remove slack from it), you will have to push the pedal less distance to disengage the driveline. It is vitally important to the life of your clutch to adjust the cable properly. I usually set it so that there is a slight amount of slack in the cable when the pedal is released completely. Too much slack, and you can run the risk of not fully disengaging the driveline between shifts and prematurely wear your synchros. Too little slack (the cable still remains tensioned when the clutch is released) and you will never get full pressure plate release and your clutch will slip wand wear out early. I would focus on the slack in the cable rather than the pedal engagement height. Checking at the bellhousing can be a help for accuracy.

quantum, how did you modify to adjust the stock self adjuster? i heard you have to have the adjstbl quadrant

Well, I don't know if my quadrant is like everyone elses. I got mine out of an 85 Stang that had a 4 cylinder, but I bet it's the same. It has the big plastic quarter circle thing with teeth all around the outside and then a little wedge with teeth on it from the arm of the pedal. All, I did was take the spring out of the wedge at the top so that it wouldn't ratchet anymore and I drilled a hole through it and the pedal arm and I put a pin through there. So what I do is, use a screwdriver to pull the quadrant to put pressure on it (get slack out of the cable) then engage the wedge in the teeth, put the pin it and there you have it. It's kinda ghetto, but it is adjustable and it's cheap. And I like the feel of it a whole lot better than aftermarket pedals. I'm thinking about making some kind of mechanism with a worm gear that you could adjust with. But, I need to go over to my friends machine shop and take my pedal with me. Anyway, that's how I do it.

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Michael Black
Quantum Motorsports
Norman, Oklahoma

1988 Merc Cougar 5.0 HO, P&Ped heads, 2.25" custom mandrel bent dual pipes, T5 five speed tranny
15.43 @ 91.08mph (not shabby for a 3600 pound car)
60' 2.453 Street tires suck!!!