Rear Axle Removal
 

I'm replacing my 3rd member on my '68 and am having a heck of a time removing my rear axles. According to the book, you just remove the 4 axle bolts and pull them out. Well, that isn't working.

I know the bearing is seated into the axle housing, but these guys are really in there. Before I get too agressive with a hammer, does anyone have any tips on this? It would be greatly appreciated.

1st time I ever pulled them, I ended up using a 5 lbs. slide hammer... they were a pain in the ***...
one way to do it is to find a chain, put a couple links onto the wheel studs... then slide a heavy bar *I used the other axle* thru the chain and use it like a slide hammer.. usually takes 2 people that way though ;-)

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84 convt,'95 302,AFR's, performer
3.55's, underdrives stock shorties
stock cam, 1.7's
14.06@100.21, 255RWHP on a hot day
265 on the mph/weight chart

Reverse the brake drum and attach loosely to the axle with two lug nuts. Use the drum as a slide hammer. If it still will not come out, you will need a 10lb. slide hammer with axle flange attachment.

Blow torch it!!! moah ha ha haaa. No seriously after years of being on it can be a real mother to take emm off. Good Luck eventually It'll come off.

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67'fastback-Edelbrock carb,intake,cam,valve springs.Rhode lifters, CompCam rocker arms, windage tray,cerama coated headers,dual flows with H-pipe, modded c-4,tci stall converter,perma cool electric fan,aluminum water pump,griffen aluminum radiator,accel 8.8 cable,wide cap distriburator,magnetic pick up,v-matic hurst shifter,edelbrock performer nitrous, carter electric fuel pump,ignitor coil,solid motor mounts,magna racing suspension,poly urathane bushings,under rider traction bars, comp. eng. s

The 10 lbs. slide hammer did the trick. Thanks for the advice.

I almost have the new Currie 3rd member in and ready to go. Can't wait to try it out.

I know you got it already, but if you can't find a 10lb slide, a lenth a chain(the longer the better) atchached to a stud and whipped, will pull even the most stubborn axel out.

Before you replace the axles, put a thin coating of grease on the outside of the ball bearings. Next time you want to remove them they will come out by hand. Don't pack them, just a thin coating.
I know you will like the Currie. Two streaks of rubber are better than one.

Lou

It only goes to prove that a man is only as good as his tool!

Or "If at first you don't suceed, get a bigger hammer".

Rev

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'66 Coupe, 306, 300 HP, C-4, 13.97 e.t., 100.3 mph
1/4 mi.

The car's all together now and what a difference the Currie 3rd member made! I would have to say that new gears (2:79s to 3:25s) has had the biggest impact on the car's personallity of any change I have made.

Rev, thanks for all your advice and help on this. Definately a pain to do, but well worth it.

Sorry I missed out on this thread, been busy last couple of days. So you put in new gears?? How do they feel??

I've been thinking of doing that as well but need a little convincing. Are you running a 302 in your 68? Maybe you already posted stats on your car but I think I missed them. Glad you got it changed out though...

I too changed my 68 FB rear from 3.00 [8 inch] to 3.50 [9 inch]. It made quite a difference in the performance. Lot more get out of the hole power.

My car is a 289 w/AOD. Engine has dual AFB's, roller cam and rockers, headers, ported heads, 1.94/1.6 valves.

My car started as a 2V 289 that had sat for about 12 years. Besides replacing all the basics, I put in the Edelbrock performance package (cam, intake and carb).

The car ran great, but only really took off at 50+ MPH. It was a dog out of the hole. The new gears really, and I mean really, changed that.

I seriously was concidering the 3:50s, but I'm glad I went with the 3:25s. At 70 MPH, the RPMs are up quite a bit.

The next project is headers and maybe doing something with the heads. Anyone have any suggestions on headers? I'm thinking of the tri-Ys.

I used Hookers with Jet-Hot coating. They fit perfect. Had to drop the P/S ram with brkt. down, that's all.

What ever you chose, make sure you use Stage 8 header bolts. They work and don't come loose or fall out.

I use Tri-Y headers and like them a lot. They go into a 2 1/2" system with 3 chamber Flowmasters. My car is set up for low end torque and street drivability though. (Shift at 5500). I figure if they were good enough for Shelby, then they're good enough for me.

Rev

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'66 Coupe, 306, 300 HP, C-4, 13.97 e.t., 100.3 mph
1/4 mi.