What the F do I do now?
 

My engine is back together: new cam, heads, intake, mass-air, bla bla bla.....and it won't start. I don't know what to do. Could fuel pressure be a problem? When I was cranking it over my friend said it read 60#. I am stuck. It pops once in awhile. Please help.

Generally it's the easy stuff. With the key on you should have about 40 lbs of fuel pressure. If fuel pressure checks out ok, check the distributor to make sure it's in correctly. Next check all electrical connections to make sure everything's hooked up right. Make sure plug wires are routed correctly in the right firing order. For an engine to fire it only needs three things, spark, fuel and compression. Good luck.

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'89 GT work in progress
'66 289 coupe even more work

Sorry, double post.

[This message has been edited by vkaro45 (edited 02-13-2001).]

When I put mine back together the distributor was 180 out. It did exactly what yours is doing. I moved the rotor 180, had my friend shoot the timing light at the crank while I tried to start it and adjust the timing till it was close and it fired right up. Good luck.

guarantee you your dist is off 180 as said before. I had a motor do that, it would pop every once in a while, finally it hit me to try that, the next crank it started right up.
Goodluck

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87GT Vortech S-trim,Aftercooler, 155intank pump, 24# injectors, 75mm pro-m, cobra intake, exhaust, 3.73's, mega bite jr's, Central coastal mustangs drag springs and some other freebies.

I am hoping it is not the mass air kit I installed........could it be that???

Did you try the distributor? That happened to me too. You don't think about it when you put the engine back together, the crank is at TDC on piston 1 twice in it's four stroke cycle, everyone happens to hit the wrong one and it starts firing up through the intake (makes popping and pinging noises) and of course never fires. Try this. Only other thing is you might have accidentally not lined up the cam timing mark properly. But, check the distributor first. If you can, take a valve cover off, and watch the rockers, when you see the #1 cylinder's rockers both move down and back up after each other, the next TDC (clockwise I believe ? ) Anyway, hope that helps. Don't see any reason why it shouldn't at least fire and kick over with a mass air problem. Good luck.

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Michael Black
Quantum Motorsports
Norman, Oklahoma

1988 Merc Cougar 5.0 HO, P&Ped heads, 2.25" custom mandrel bent dual pipes, T5 five speed tranny
15.43 @ 91.08mph (not shabby for a 3600 pound car)
60' 2.453 Street tires suck!!!

Try flooring it while you are cranking....yes, I know that it isn't carburated, but it works....at least for me it did. I think it shuts off fuel??? It'll work if you're flooded...

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1992 5.0 LX, Edelbrock 6037 Heads, Cobra Intake,E-303, 1.6 Roller Rockers,65MM Holley TB, 75 MM Pro M Mass Air, 190 LPH FP w/ 24 lb injectors,BBK equal length shorties,offroad h-pipe,Mac Flowpath Mufflers, Pro 5.0, 3.73's,Motorsport "C" springs,welded subframe connectors, Ponies w/ 225/50 Nittos, 93 Cobra Spoiler

Daily driver: 89 Coupe with 205K plus, BBK shorties,offroad h-pipe,2-chamber flowmasters with dumps, cut and welded stock shifter...and it runs like a champ.

you forgot something - for an engine to run it needs four things- spark, fuel, compression, and TIMING.

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1993 GT/AOD
'93 Mustang GT

When I get home I guess I'll check plug wires, firing order, and timing. Is TDC on the compression stroke of #1??? If it is I just have to take out #1 plug and turn it over tell it hisses, then slightly adjust to 0 on balancer?? then drop distributor in with rotor pointing at #1 terminal on cap?? Sound good to anyone?

That's what I did.

Sometimes I just pull off the valvecover and verify that the motor is in fact at TDC on the compression stroke of #1 When at TDC of the exhaust stroke the exhaust valve will be closing and the intake opening, Next time up is the compression stroke both valves are not moving. The hiss method works pretty well if you can reach the #1 hole ok. I just learned that #1 is the front pass side cyl, not drivers side like my Chevy. The non EFI firing order is the same for Chevy and Ford if you de code the numbering system, and starting point. I still can't figure out why they changed the firing order for EFI motors.

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Frank W
90 5.0 LX coupe Stone stock soon to be daily driver
74 Chevy Laguna Type S-3 305 apart in garage, getting a 454 to put next to it
www.chevellepages.com/folingo

[This message has been edited by Chevyguy (edited 02-13-2001).]

To answer your question, even with the MAF sensor completely disconnected the car should start, it'll run for maybe a second and shut off after that, but it should start.

I agree it sounds like your distributer is off. I always but my car back together thinking mine is right but it's usually off. And when it is it'll just keep cranking and sometimes mis-fire (pop). Hope this helps

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92' LX Hatch 5 spd Edelbrock Performer Intake, pro-m 75mm MAF, 70mm T.B., 24lb injectors, 190lph, Mac fenderwall cold air induction, mallary ignition and coil, Cobra 1.7 rockers, 373:1 gear, upper and lower control arms, supersubs, 50/50's, front drag springs, no sway bar, battery in hatch, compucar N20 kit