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Old 01-12-2002, 11:05 AM   #5
silver_pilate
DURKA DURKA!!
 
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Join Date: Sep 1997
Location: Lubbock, TX...(TX panhandle)
Posts: 1,418
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Or...if you live a ways out of town...and you don't want to drive all the way into town...and you're really impatient....all kinda like me....do this.

Get an old funnel or a plastic cup (the ones that they give away at the concession stands at basketball games work really well).

I'll describe how I did it with the cup. Take some scissors and cut a strip about 2" in length and about 1" in width down from the rim of the cup. Ususally, those cups have a thicker part right at the rim that steps down to a thinner wall for the rest of the cup. If this is the case, be sure to cut the strip wide enough to include about 1/4" of the thin wall.

Next, take some plyers and bend the strip into a tighter circle...tight enough to fit into the open end of the fuel clip. Slip the "tool" onto the fuel line and slip that thin walled portion into the open end of the clip. This will slip under the spring and release the o-ring. Pull the lines apart while pushing the tool into the clip with your thumb and pointer finger, and they should pop right apart. Maybe a little monkey grease will help.

I've used this method both for fuel lines (on two seperate occasions) as well as the condensor-A/C connection. It takes a little fiddling and you have to hold your tongue the right way, but it works. I've always intended to buy the tool...but just always forgot to do so before I already had the project going, and I didn't want to spend an hour running to town and back.

You can try this...or just go buy the tool . Just remember, nothing beats good ol' fashioned Southern engineering.

--nathan
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'91 GT, Coast 347, 9.5:1 compression, full intake, Wolverine 1087 cam, exhaust, Keith Craft ported Windsor Jr. Irons (235 cfm intake, 195 cfm exhaust), AOD, PI 3500 converter, Lentech valve body, 3.73's (4.10's in the works), and Yokohama ES100's out back.

Daily Car: '04 Infiniti G35 Sedan 6MT
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