They are very easy to install. I have the exact same set you have and I didn't even have to use the shims that it came with
Take off the upper intake and valve covers. You'll have to grind down or remove the baffle in the passenger side cover so the rockers won't hit it. Then remove the old rockers and just leave the pushrods where they're at.
It's pretty self-explanitory how they go on, so get them on and finger tighten the bolts.
You'll need to tighten each one down when the lifter for that rocker is on the base circle of the cam (valve is closed).
Then you can tighten to the torque spec that Crane includes in the instructions. Tighten the rocker down with one hand and move the pushrod up and down with the other, tighten just enough to where there is no up and down movement. Most people say to do it until you can't turn the pushrod anymore but this is sometimes hard to determine. Do it whichever way your comfortable with. After its at this point I think its between 1/4 and 3/4 turns that it's supposed to get to the torque spec. If not, you'll need to remove the rocker and add a shim. But on mine, all of them were fine without any shims, so yours could be the same.
Another thing, if you have high miles on your car then the rockers probably wont give you much power at all because chances are your valve springs are worn. This was the case in my car and I didn't know about this until well after I installed them. I bought a set of comp cams springs from summit for like $70 and they made a huge difference. The stock worn valve springs would make the valves float at about 5300RPM. Just something for ya to think about.
Hope this helps, good luck
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NMRA O/C 9516
NA pumpgas stickshift 347 10.65@125.6, 6.73@100, 1.41 60ft
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