[gtsr515]

The rating on the sidewall of a tire is NOT just it's MAXIMUM pressure rating, if that was the case there would be only one number, not a range of say 32-44psi.

As I said before, when performance driving is the issue, you want the tire at it's maximum or a little more, to keep the contact patch square to the road and the sidewall at a 90 degree angle to the road or track (in a perfect world), 32psi in a tire pushed on a race track will perform like crap, rolling over the rim inducing massive understeer. We have proven this time and time again at Skip Barber.

The compression braking thing will work, but you need to match rev's on the downshift with the precision of Michael Andretti or the rears WILL lock up in the snow, use your brakes, THAT is what is meant to stop the car, compression braking in the snow is too risky, unless your Mr. Andretti. Bottom line is be carefull when doing that. And Peckerwud, you HAVE locked up the rears before, you just can't see it, NOBODY's that good.

I have a Sand Dune Racer (Hot V dub motor in a tube frame), and that only weighs 910 pounds, 1250 with me in it and I get the best performance with the tire at or near maximum psi, weight of the vehicle does not determine inflation pressure, it is a factor, but not the main factor. When asking 100% from your tires, be it racing or hauling dirt or bricks, you must inflate to max or near maximum to receive the 100% your asking for.

A tire doesn't know if it has a CRX sitting on it or a Dodge Ram?, all it knows is if you start to push me, I need air to respond. Lowering air pressure in a radial is rarely needed.

And a brake proportioning valve is equally risky, but not if used properly, if your's locks up by looking at the brake pedal, something is wrong with the unit, or you have to much bias to the rear, it has helped me for 20 years in those lovely Chicago winters.

Hey! i just thought of what would help your winter braking the best........move to Florida like I did!

Good luck to all!!!!!!!!!