Quote:
Originally posted by andy669
I dont recommend filling holes with bondo. The big holes should be filled with fiberglass first. It is definately a job for a professional, but if you are set on doing it yourself, more power to ya!
The fiberglass (or kitty hair) will give the bondo a solid surface to stick to. Some type of rust convertor is good to have too. I like "Rust Mort". It works great on the spots that arent rusted all the way through.
andy
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There aren't any holes yet, just surface rust. That is why I am hoping to grind it down to bare metal and go from there. I am familar with fiberglass, but not for this type of application, so if you or anybody else has more info on that, I would appreciate it.
4.6l-etr: Taking it to a body shop sounds like a good idea, but I'm in college so money is too tight to allow me to do that. I know it isn't going to look perfect, but I want to stop the rust, make it look as good as I can, and most importantly stop the rust. If I let it go, it is going to rust through and create holes and look even sh*ttier and then I will have to buy a new hatch, get it painted, get the window retinted, etc........ The paint is Oxford White, and that is the type of duplicolor I have. Again, I'd love to send it out to a body shop, but that just isn't in the cards, so any painting tips you have are welcomed as well. I do plan on using a sanding block for all of my sanding.
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1991 GT, AOD, Moroso Cold Air, 3.73s,
Pulleys, H-pipe, MAC Pro-Dumps,
FMS c-springs, and KYBs, A/c delete,
190 LPH fuel pump, 3-row radiator,
Maximum Motorsports full length subframes
2002 Oldsmobile Bravada(wife's car)
2005 Ford Taurus SEL (company ride)
GOD BLESS OUR TROOPS !!!!
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